CRUISING TO THE DRY TORTUGAS by Randy, Kim & Corey Kalisik
CRUISING TO THE DRY TORTUGAS RANDY � Introduction - About us and about Blue Turtle, our trawler KIM � About the Dry Tortugas - History, facts, things to do, and park rules � Pre-trip - Provisioning and pre-trip checklist RANDY � Getting there - Cruising considerations and scenarios � Arriving - Anchoring, checking in (boat permits/fees) and sooty terns � Snorkeling & Diving - Equipment check, snorkel & dive sites and getting the most out of it COREY � Fishing - Park & state regulations, fishing spots and type of fish caught
INTRODUCTION
ABOUT US � Full time live aboard for 5 years on Fort Myers Beach with our son, Corey and dog, Sophie � Both work full time - Kim owns a web design business, Randy is a manufacturer’s rep for industrial products � Cruising around southwest Florida, the Keys and Dry Tortugas � Very active in fishing, diving, snorkeling and other water sports � Randy is a U.S.C.G. Licensed Master Captain � Blog about living aboard and cruising at www.blueturtletrawler.com
ABOUT BLUE TURTLE � 1974 40’ DeFever Passagemaker Trawler � Single screw (185hp Perkins) with bow and stern thrusters � Cruising speed 6 - 7.5 knots � 1.5 gallons per hour fuel consumption � Full displacement hull � 200 gallons water capacity � 500 gallon fuel capacity � 40 gallon holding tank � 9 foot dinghy with 15 hp motor
ABOUT THE DRY TORTUGAS
SMALL GROUP OF ISLANDS � Small group of islands located 70 miles west of Key West � 7 Islands total - Loggerhead Key, Garden Key, Bush Key, Long Key, Hospital Key, Middle Key, and East Key � Only 2 of them can be visited year round - Garden Key and Loggerhead Key � Bush Key is seasonally closed during the sooty tern nesting season � East Key, Middle Key, Hospital Key and Long Key are closed year round for nesting wildlife
DRY TORTUGAS HISTORY � Named Las Tortugas (The Turtles) in 1513 by Spanish explorer Ponce de León � Labeled “Dry Tortugas” on mariner charts to indicate it offered no fresh water � America realized fortifying the Tortugas was an essential step in controlling navigation on the Gulf of Mexico � Fort Jefferson - active naval base and prison for criminals and deserters throughout Civil War � Famous prisoner Samuel Mudd who had been convicted of conspiracy in the assassination of President Abraham Lincoln � Fort was later used as a a quarantine station for Marine Hospital Service and coaling station for war ships � The Tortugas major shipping channel became known as a “ship trap” because of the number of wrecks in the shallow waters
GARDEN KEY � Second largest island, about 14 acres in size � Home to Fort Jefferson, park headquarters, visitor center, campgrounds and great snorkeling areas
� Fort Jefferson is the largest brick masonry structure in the Western Hemisphere � Six-sided, four-tiered building made up of 16 Million bricks! � Garden Key lighthouse was first constructed in 1825 to help guide ships through shallow waters
� Beware of loose bricks and wall edges when exploring the fort
LOGGERHEAD KEY � Located 3 miles from Garden Key, it is the largest of the Dry Tortugas islands. � It’s the site of amazing snorkeling and diving at nearby reefs and wreck - Little Africa & Windjammer Wreck
� The Dry Tortugas Light (on Loggerhead Key) along with the Garden Key lighthouse were the only lights on the Gulf coast throughout the American Civil War � Home of a cutting-edge marine laboratory from 1905 to 1939 - the most significant scientific research of the Dry Tortugas was conducted there
ABOUT THE PARK � Designated a National Park in 1983 � Called “Dry” because of the absence of surface fresh water on the island � Noted for abundant sea life and coral reefs, tropical bird breeding grounds, and legends of shipwrecks
� Corals reefs are the least disturbed of the Florida Keys reefs making for amazing snorkeling and diving
� Tropical bird breeding grounds - Over 299 species including the Sooty Tern and Brown Noddy
� Accessible only by ferry (out of Key West), seaplane or private vessel � Ferry visitors are at the fort from 10:30 am - 3pm
Credit: Jennifer Macaulay via Flickr � Since the Dry Tortugas islands are closer to Cuba than Miami, Cuban migrants attempt to land here on homemade boats called “chugs”
THINGS TO DO � Explore Fort Jefferson � Camping � Fishing � Kayaking/paddle sports � Swimming, snorkeling and diving � Wildlife viewing / bird watching � Explore Loggerhead Key � Stargazing � Watch the sun rise and set on the Gulf of Mexico
A FEW PARK RULES � Pets are allowed on Garden Key but not inside the fort � Collecting of lobsters and Spearfishing is prohibited � Fishing is permitted on Garden Key in specified areas and outside the Research Natural Area (refer to park map) � Pack in, pack out park – all campers, visitors and boaters must take out what they brought in
ISOLATION � No water – i.e. “Dry” Tortugas � No restaurants or shops of any kind; only lodging facilities is a primitive camp ground � No cell or WiFi service – Park Ranger office posts printed 3-day weather forecasts � Park recommends campers bring two gallons of water per person per day as well as extra 2 days of food
PRE- TRIP
PROVISIONING � The Park recommends 2 gallons of water per person per day and an extra 2 days of food in case of bad weather � If you have adequate freezer and storage space, stock up on non-perishable foods (Canned goods, frozen meat, dry goods like rice and pasta) � Utilize your fresh produce and perishables first at the beginning of the trip and rely on non-perishables as you run out � To save space and fit more food, remove items from boxes and large cartons and repack in plastic � If you have a small fridge, keep beverages in a separate cooler for the first couple days and move them into the refrigerator as space is made available � Water-conservation tips: washing dishes in salt water followed by fresh water rinse; using salt water and a bucket to rinse your decks � Carry extra water by purchasing jerry cans or bladders to fill with fresh water as well as using solar showers
PRE- TRIP CHECKLIST � Check running lights (if cruising at night) � Have bottom and running gear dove and cleaned � Check engine maintenance � Bring spare fuel filters and impellers � Bring extra oil, transmission oil and coolant � Fill fuel and water � Pump holding tank � Check diving and snorkeling equipment Keep in mind that there are no stores to buy food, water, spare parts, etc.
GETTING THERE
CRUISING CONSIDERATIONS � Located in the Gulf of Mexico at the end of the Florida Keys, about 70 miles west of Key West � Check the long term weather forecast for winds, hurricanes, or fronts to make sure you have an optimal weather window � Summer has afternoon thunderstorms � Winter has cold fronts
� Departing or returning to Key West - cruise on north or south side of islands depending on wind and swell direction North Side South Side
CRUISING SCENARIOS � Our trip from Fort Myers to the Dry Tortugas was 120 miles and took 18 hours � Cruising 1-day vs. 3-days (depending on your location) � We anchored out in a pass the night before to make it easier and quicker to leave in the early a.m.
ARRIVING
ANCHORING � Vessels anchor at the Tortugas Anchorage or Bird Key Anchorage � Anchorage is 20-30’ deep and coarse sandy bottom. Scope 5-7 times depth. � We have an anchor designed for a 50’ boat and 100 feet of chain. � It’s common seeing boats drag anchor � Keep 16 on at night as rangers hail when a boat is adrift
BOAT PERMIT & FEES � The entrance fee for the park is $10.00 per visitor. This fee covers entrance to the park for 7 days. You may stay a maximum of 14 days at one time. � A free-of-charge boat permit must be obtained and can be acquired from park rangers on site or contact VHF Marine Radio Channel 16
SOOTY TERNS � About 80,000 Sooty Terns nest annually on Bush Key near the anchorage � Bush Key is closed seasonally to the public because of the nesting ground � The birds can present a messy problem for boaters anchoring in the area with their droppings � We used an osprey kite last year and it seemed to keep them away very well
SNORKELING & DIVING
EQUIPMENT CHECK � Test snorkel and dive gear in a pool to make sure everything works � Bring spare equipment if you have it — things break and there are no local dive shops to visit for repairs � Bring enough dive tanks for your trip since there’s no where to get air fills
SNORKELING SITES � Garden Key � Little Africa � Windjammer Wreck � Brick Wreck
Credit: snorkelingtravel.com GARDEN KEY & FORT JEFFERSON Closest snorkeling spot is around the fort moat wall and coal dock ruins. You can night snorkel around the mote as well.
LITTLE AFRICA Located on the west side of Loggerhead Key is a huge shallow reef perfect for snorkeling.
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