Natural Metal Finishes by Boyd Waechter History of Natural Metal - - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

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Natural Metal Finishes by Boyd Waechter History of Natural Metal - - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

Mar 10, 2024 276 likes •708 views

Natural Metal Finishes by Boyd Waechter History of Natural Metal Finishes Floquil Bright Silver and Old Silver, Pactra Flat Aluminum - all enamels, none produce a true, realistic metal finish, pigments too coarse Liqua-A- Plate

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Natural Metal Finishes

by Boyd Waechter

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History of Natural Metal Finishes

Floquil Bright Silver and Old Silver, Pactra Flat Aluminum - all enamels, none produce a true, realistic metal finish, pigments too coarse “Liqua-A-Plate” – produced by Bob Moore in the mid 1970’s, very fragile and hard to use, came in multiple shades, very toxic odor “Spray ‘N’ Plate” - produced by Advance Products in the late 70’s, easier to use, but still very fragile and could not be masked over without difficulty, one shade only

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Monogram 1/48th SNJ-5 Texan – Built in 1980 and painted with Spray N Plate

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History of Natural Metal Finishes

SNJ Spray Metal – produced by SNJ Metal Products in liquid form and powder (dangerous to use), can not mask over it – no longer available. Alclad – a derivative of Spray N Plate, based on similar formula, but pigments ground finer. Lacquer based, so must put down barrier between plastic and paint. Very extensive range of colors, easiest to use. Humbrol, Xtracolor, Gunze Sanyo, Testors, etc. all now produce metalizer paints to some degree.

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ICM 1/48th P-51B Mustang – Painted with SNJ Spray Metal

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Silver Pastes

  • Rub ‘n Buff
  • Treasure Gold
  • Both available at Hobby Lobby
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Tamiya 1/32nd Spitfire Mk.IX – Finished with Treasure Gold

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Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminum

Rattle Can Silver Paint

Dupli-Color Metallic Silver (GM)

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Lone Star Models 1/48th XB-42 painted with Dupli-Color Silver Paint

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Building NM Finished Models

  • Must have large amount of patience. If not, DON’T build

natural metal models!

  • Start with a good quality kit that has good fit (Tamiya, Hase-

gawa, AFV Club, Revell/Germany, etc.).

  • Spending time test fitting parts to minimize or eliminate use
  • f fillers will pay dividends later on.
  • Assemble as much of model with super glue, or liquid glues like

Texnax 7R or Testors Liquid Cement as you can.

  • Use gap filling super glue or kit plastic in lieu of putty when-

ever possible .

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  • To minimize deep scratches in the plastic, NEVER use any

sandpaper or a sanding stick heavier than 600 grit.

  • ALL imperfections in the plastic and seams must be

repaired before painting begins – use super glue or primer.

  • Putty must be over coated with super glue and sanded
  • smooth. Putty is NOT your friend when using metalizers.
  • Prior to painting, polish all seams with Blue Magic or

Novus polishing creams, then wipe model down w/ alcohol.

  • Use pin light and magnifier to check all seams.
  • Prime all seams with Testor’s Non-Buffing Aluminum.
  • Repair any imperfections before continuing.
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Heller 1/72nd EC-121 polished prior to priming seams

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EC-121 after wing seams and engines have been primed with Testor’s Aluminum

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Which One To Use?

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Testors Metalizers

Not as difficult to use as some report No primer necessary Mix 1:1 with lacquer thinner (do not use straight out of the bottle) All colors must be painted first and then masked off Mist on in 2 to 3 coats, 18-20 psi Easily repairable, blends in nicely Can be masked over with care Extensive range of colors, widely available, less expensive ($5.00)

Alclad II Metalizers

Most durable Can be masked over after model is painted Model must be primed in either gloss gray or gloss black paints, so additional step is necessary Primer will help fill any minute scratches or imperfections Limited availability locally Expensive ($7.99 per bottle via Sprue Brothers) 23 basic colors

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Always wash your hands after using metalizer paints.

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Hobbycraft 1/48th F-94B Starfire painted using Testors Metalizers

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Paneling affect on Trumpeter 1/32nd F-105B (Conv) using Alclad II paints.

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Fisher 1/32nd Hawker Sea Fury T.20 Racer using Alclad II paints

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Paneling affect on Airfix 1/48th E.E. Lightning using Alclad II paints

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Paneling affect with various shades of Testors metalizer paints

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Using Floquil Silver Paints

  • These are NOT metalizers, but lacquer based paints
  • Three basic colors - Old Silver, Bright Silver, Platinum Mist
  • Very hard and durable once dry
  • Pigments are coarse, so best to use a medium tip and needle
  • Pigments will settle in color cup, so best to use in gravity

feed airbrush or using spray jar

  • Some people polish these paints after application with Brasso
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Accurate Miniatures 1/48th SBD-5 using Floquil Old Silver

For old, weathered look

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Other Finishes

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Testors Non-Buffing Aluminum oversprayed with Dullcote

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Testor’s Non-Buffing Aluminum over sprayed with Metalizer sealer

RAF/Royal Navy High Speed Finish

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Examples of Natural Metal Models

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Classic Airframes 1/48th B-57B Canberra, Edwards AFB

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Trumpeter 1/32nd F-105B Conversion

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Hobbycraft 1/48th F-94B Starfire (kit decals)

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Williams Brothers 1/72nd C-46 Commando Painted using automotive silver paint

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Tamiya 1/48th P-51D Mustang Painted using ModelMaster Non-Buffing Aluminum

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Kinetic 1/32nd F-86F-25 Sabre

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Hasegawa 1/72nd Avro Lancaster Mk.III RCAF

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Italeri 1/72nd C-119G Flying Boxcar

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Matchbox 1/72nd Consolidated RY3 Privateer

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Messerschmitt Me-262

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Hasegawa 1/72nd B-25J Mitchell RCAF

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Summary

Always start with the best fitting kit available of the subject you want to build. Natural metal finishes require a lot of extra time. Must plan ahead on application of colors, shades of metalizers, etc. Although a bit more expensive and it is a two step process, Alclad II is recommended for someone just beginning to do natural metal finishes. www.alclad2.com

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Bye Bye Boys!