What the top maker looks for Mr Michael Blake, BWK Elders Top - - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

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What the top maker looks for Mr Michael Blake, BWK Elders Top - - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

Jun 11, 2023 169 likes •339 views

What the top maker looks for Mr Michael Blake, BWK Elders Top making Raw wool demand Consumer demand Fashion / clothing manufacturers Weavers / knitters Worsted and woollen spinners Top maker Raw wool supply Australian for Agriculture

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SLIDE 1

What the top maker looks for

Mr Michael Blake, BWK Elders

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Australian for Agriculture

Top making Raw wool demand

Consumer demand Fashion / clothing manufacturers Weavers / knitters Worsted and woollen spinners Top maker Raw wool supply

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Australian for Agriculture

Industry demand and supply

Wool Marketing Exporters Scouring/ Spinners Weavers/ Cut & Retail/ Growers Topmaking Knitters Sew Wholesale

DEMAND DRIVEN – Forward orders SUPPLY DRIVEN – Auction

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Australian for Agriculture

Derived demand (raw wool)

  • Consumer trends

– Colour – Feel/ comfort – fashion – Eco/natural – Cost

  • Designer/fibre related

– Weight – Drape – Handle/tactile – Surface appearance

  • Processor requirements

– Specific micron – Low CVH – Elites – Machine washable – Etc

  • Service related

– Reliable supply – Delivered on time – Repeatable performance – High efficiency

Source: Stanton, J. (1998)

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Australian for Agriculture

Two factors affecting top makers:

  • 1. Cost and availability
  • 2. Top specifications
  • Industrial cost of top making
  • Seasonality of supply
  • Demand from spinner
  • ‘Least Cost’ solution to specifications
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Australian for Agriculture

Share of final costs: wool

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Australian for Agriculture

  • 1. Cost and availability

topmaking costs

  • $1.00

$1.00 / kg kg

– Fibre diameter – Yield – Vegetable matter – Clip preparation – Labour costs – Electricity – Water – Effluent – Efficiency – Expertise – Technology – Era combs – Funding – Exchange rates – Contamination – Client risk – Credit risk

  • Raw material

– 70% of total

Michael Blake Source: The Wool Task Force (1999)

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Australian for Agriculture

  • 1. Cost and availability seasonality of supply
  • Wool availability throughout season

– Supply-demand imbalance – Specific types at specific times – Access to fresh wool supply – Other origin wool

  • Stock holding costs

– Financial – Storage capacity

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Australian for Agriculture

  • 1. Cost and availability means of raw

wool supply

  • Auction
  • Open mill orders
  • Private treaty
  • Futures
  • Traders forward sales
  • Electronic selling
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Australian for Agriculture

Two factors affecting top makers

  • 1. Cost and availability
  • 2. Top specifications
  • Requirements from spinner
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Australian for Agriculture

  • 2. Top specifications worsted spinning

2/32Nm 2/36Nm 2/40Nm 2/48Nm 2/52Nm 2/56Nm 2/44Nm 95 90 85 80 75 70 65 60 55 50 45 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 95

Fibre diameter (µm) Fibre length (mm)

  • Nm = m/g
  • yarn count

– linear density

  • 2/56 Nm

– 2 ply – 56 m/g count

Source: Stanton, J. (1998)

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Australian for Agriculture

Lambswool Knitting yarn Worsted knitting yarn Woollen knitting yarns Wool/Polyester worsted yarn Plain worsted weaving yarns High twist weaving yarns (crepe)

95 90 85 80 75 70 65 60 55 50 45 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 95

Fibre diameter (µm) Fibre length (mm)

2 - Top specifications assembling demand

Source: Stanton and Coss (1995)

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Australian for Agriculture

  • 2. Top specifications spinners’ specifications

Parameter 21.5 micron 18.5 micron Diameter (micron µm) - max 21.5 18.5 CV(µm) – max 22.0 20.5 % >30µm – max 4.5 3.0 Hauteur (H) – min 70.0 65.0 CV(H) – max 45.0 45.0 % < 25mm – max 7.0 7.0 % < 40mm – max 18.0 18.0 Soxhlet % - max 0.8 0.8 Neps per kg – max 40 40 Burrs per kg – max 10 10 P/Burr per kg – max 30 30 Shive per kg – max 20 20 P/Shive per kg – max 100 100 Slubs per kg – max Coloured fibres per kg – max 20 20 Uster CV – max 3.75 3.75 pH – max 9.2 9.2 Sliver weight (g/m) 20 20 Ash content (%) 0.5 0.5

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Australian for Agriculture

  • 2. Top specifications wool top

requirements

Fibre related

  • Micron
  • Hauteur
  • CVH
  • Short fibre content
  • Colour
  • Coloured fibres
  • Contamination
  • VM
  • Style
  • Repeatability

Technical / industrial

  • Oil content
  • Sliver weight
  • VM content
  • Top colour
  • Final form

– Bobbins – Bumps

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Australian for Agriculture

Challenges in commercial top making

1. JIT requirement 2. Competition 3. Market risk 4. Price fluctuations 5. Keeping up to technology 6. Raw wool specification 7. Contamination 8. Wool availability 9. Predictability of results 10. Repeatability of top