Wh What in the World?! Sa Sauvign gnon Bl Blanc as s an Inter - - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

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Wh What in the World?!

Sa Sauvign gnon Bl Blanc as s an In Inter ernation ional l Varie iety Jo John hn Bue uechse hsens nstein

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Mi Michel Ca Cazeaux-Ca Cazalet (1910), am ampelograp aphy by by Vi Viala an and Ve Vermorel

“T “The aroma of Sauvignon Blanc is so unique that it is impossible to confuse it with any y other varieties… It has be been n compar pared d with h that hat of vani anilla a and and mus uscat at, but but it is di different, and and cons nstitut utes the he singul ngular ar tas aste of Sauv auvigno gnon n Bl Blanc anc wi wine nes.”

IM IMHO: A good Sauvignon the worl rld over r should exhibit:

Ty Typicité & & Or Origi ginal nalité

Fl Flavors o

• f a

a w wine m must b be t true t to g grape t type(s) a and ex expressive of its place of origin, i. i.e.

• e. Eac

ach sau auvig vignon

• n shou
• uld

ld expres ess it its TE TERROIR!

What contribures to flavor formation that gives rise to “typicité/originalité” or “terroir” expression ?

• Cl

Clima mate ~ ~

• Su

Sunlight energy, luminosity, temperature

• Ra

Rainfall, , hydrology, , water r use duri ring the se seaso son

• Ge

Geological parent material, Soi Soil com

• mpos
• sition
• n
• To

Topography: Aspect, inclination, ex exposure

• Vi

Viticultural choices

• En

Environm nmen ental flora and nd fauna una

• Pr

Precursors of varietal expression (DNA)

• Ha

Harves est timi ming ng, frui uit ha handl ndling ng, eno enological ch choice ces

• Fru

Fruit and winery microflora (microbial te terroir)

• Fe

Fermentation microbes and te temperature

• En

Environm nmen ental odo dors?

• Pe

People and their traditions and cu cuisine…from Ol Old W World a and Ne New.

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Jancis Robinson on typicité/originalité…

“I “It sho shoul uld be be ad added ed, ho however, tha that, t, as as wi winemakers in increas easin ingly ly tr travel be betw tween wi wine re regions, ab absorbin ing an and ap apply lyin ing di different te techniques, so some di disti tinc ncti tions ns be betw tween wh what we were re regard rded as as wi wine ar archetypes es ar are be being ng er erod

• ded

ed, an and the there is is mo more di disa sagr greement tha than ev ever as as to to wh what co constitutes ty typi picality ty.”

JR JR, Ox Oxford Co

• Comp. 3rd

rd Ed

Ed.

What constitutes sauvignon flavor “typicité” ?

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“A “Almost imperceptible in unfermented must, the aroma characteristic of Sau Sauvi vignon Blan anc wines mai ainly develops during al alcoholic fermentati tion from th the ar aroma-less p precursors i in th the m must. t.”

De Denis nis Dubo Dubour urdie dieu in in TONG NG, N°1 1 (2009) 2009)

“ It It i is t the w winemaking w which r reveals t the a aroma h hidden i in t the f fruit … … T The w wine tastes m more o

• f f

fruits ts th than th the g grape d does … … F Fermentati tion a acts ts t to r reveal aro aroma a by libe berati rating ng the the aro aroma a compo pounds unds in n the the Sauv Sauvigno gnon n Blanc anc grape grape.” ”

Em Emile Pe Peynaud, “The Taste of f Wine (1 (1980)

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“Schools” of Sauvignon flavor…

v Fru Fruity/Fl /Floral v Ve Vege/grassy/herbal v “Sty “Stylized” ” v Va Various combinations

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FR FRUITY/FL FLORAL (t

(ter erpen enes es, thiols iols an and es ester ers)

• CI

CITRUS – gr grapefru ruit/l /lemon/l /lime/orange

• ME

MELON

• FI

FIG

• AP

APPLE/PEAR AR

• ST

STONE FRUIT – AP APRI RICOT T PEACH

• PI

PINEAPPLE PPLE & TROP P FRUITS – gu guava, passion, mango

• GREEN F

FRUIT ITS S – go gooseberry

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Fr Free Volatile mo mono-Te Terpenes fl floral/fr /fruity/per erfu fumey

• Li

Linalool

• ol – sp

spicy floral al (dap aphne)

• β-Ci

Citronellol – sc scented geran anium

• Geran

aniol – ro

rosey/per perfume umey/s /scented geranium

• 2,6

2,6-bi bis(1,1-De Demethylethyl)-4-me methyl phe pheno nol – “g “green”

• Ne

Nerol – lemon g gras ass, s sweet r t rose-lik like

• α-te

terpineol – lilac ac, f floral al

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Es Esters = = Alcohols s + + Organic c Aci cids

• Et

Ethyl propionate ate – “f “fruity ty” ” possi ssible pineap apple

• Is

Isoamyl a acetate – ar art.

• t. ban

anan ana a (is

(isobutyl l ac acetate – fr fruit it, ap apple le, ban anan ana) a)

• Et

Ethyl caproate ate (hexanoate ate) – ap apple peel, , fruity ty

• Am

Amino aci cid ethyl esters – var arious f fruits ts

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Vo Volatile Thiols – Th The s e sou

• ul of S
• f SB c

B character er

• 4MMP

4MMP 4-me mercapto-4-me methyl-pe pentan-2-on

• ne – ca

cat pee, broom, boxwood

• 3MH

3MHA 3-me mercaptoh

• hexanol
• l acetate – pa

passio ion n fruit uit, , bo boxwood

• 3MH

3MH 3-me mercaptoh

• hexan-1-ol
• l – gr

grapefruit, pa passio ion n fruit uit

• 4MMP

4MMPOH 4-me mercapto-4-me methylpentan-1-ol

• l – ci

citrus zest

• BM

BMT be benz nzene nemetha hane nethio hiol – mi mineral, smok moky, flinty

De Denis nis Dubo Dubour urdie dieu, TON ONG N°1 1

Ot Other r odors are possible such as those found in bla black cur urrant bud, bud, tomato le leaf, , rhuba hubarb

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Pe Perception threshold (ng/L), olfactory description and conc. (ng/L)

• f
• f vola
• latile

ile thiols iols in in Sauvig ignon

• n Bla

lanc win ines es (L (Loir

• ire,

e, Bor

• rdea

eaux) )

Denis Dubourdieu, TONG N°1

Compound Perception threshold Olfactory description

• Conc. in

wines 4MMP 0.8 Boxwood, broom, cat pee 3-44 3MHA 4.2 Passion fruit, boxwood 0-800 3MH 60.0 Grapefruit, passion fruit 600-12000 4MMPOH 55.0 Citrus zest 0-150 BMT 0.33 Mineral, smoky, flinty 0-15

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Th Thio iols ls: must be managed!

• Sk

Skin contac act t is necessar ary for sufficient t pre-fe fermentation extraction of thiol precursors i is m man andatory

• Th

The norm rm in Ne New Zealand is mech chanical harvesting

• Th

The mace ceration due to mach chine harvesting and tru ruck ck transport rt time is a wo wonderful unintended benefit!

• Ra

Rapid addition of antioxidants, SULFITE TES and AS ASCORB RBIC ACID, is essential. Bo Both are added to gondolas in the field.

• Ad

Addition of enzymes is very benefici cial along with the antioxidants

NZ NZ Comments, Caren n Coetzee, W& W&V May 2018 2018

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VE VEGE GE/GR GRASS SSY/HERBAL

• GREEN G

GRASS, SS, D DRY G GRASS, SS, h hay

• VE

VEGETAL AL – bell p pepper “ “cap apsicum”, c celery, c can anned p peas as, as aspar arag agus

• LE

LEMON ON GRASS – (a (a mon

• no-te

terpenoid)

• HE

HERBAL L – dill, t tar arrag agon, b bas asil

• GOOSE

SEBERRY

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Py Pyrazines

• MI

MIBP Met Methoxy-isobuty tyl-py pyrazine and others Th The vari rious “green” or r “ve vege ge” ” odors: s: bell p pepper, , asp aspar arag agus, s, jal alap apen eno, , grass, ass, ce celery Th Thiols may also be making this flavor r contri ribution. Po Possible low level contribution to “m “mineral ality ty”

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Al Aldehydes – mi mino nor contribut butors

• Ace

Acetaldehyde – fr fruity, pumpki kin

• He

Hexanal – “f “fatty ty” ” green grass assy, , unripe fruit

• 2-Met

Methyl-propan anal al – nutty ty, c cheesy

• Be

Benzaldehyde – al almond

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“S “STYLIZED” ED” (c

(cer ertainly y familiar to

• us in Califor
• rnia)
• VA

VANILLIN

• Ot

Other er Oa Oak lac actones – coconut, t, s spicy, e ear arth thy, h herbac aceous

• BU

BUTTER – ML MLF diacet etyl

• Fu

Furf rfural – car aram amel, b butterscotch

• Guai

aiac acol – sm smoky, , char ar

• “SU

“SUR LIES” S” CHARACTER ER

• HO

HONEY, nectary, HA HAY

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Ma Malol

• lactic F

Fer ermen entation

• n
• Di

Diace cetyl – but buttery

• Cr

Creamy mouthfeel

• Pu

Pungent popcorn notes (“sur lies”)

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So So, wh what’s wi with “m “mineral ality” ? Va

Various theories exist:

• Ro

Rocks? Minerals? NO

• Tr

Trace concentration of pyrazines? Maybe

• Tr

Trace concentration of thiols? Maybe

• Tr

Trace levels of sulfide/mercaptans from struggling yeast or possibly BMT benzyl m meth thyl th thiol – Ve Very possibly

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Co Consid sider er t the g e growin ing c condit itio ions s and and flavor pr profiles es of Sauvi Sauvigno gnon n fr from k key g growin ing sit sites a es around th the wor

• rld…

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Va Various Terroirs for Sauvignon

• La

Lake e Cou

• unty

y AVAs LAKE COUNTY

• Ru

Russian Ri River Valley SONOMA

• St

Stellenbosch (W

(Western n Cape pe) SOUTH AFRICA

• Va

Valle de Casablanca CHILE

• Ma

Marlborough NEW ZEALAND

• San

Sancerre/Po Pouilly-Fu Fumé FRANCE

• Gr

Graves es FRANCE

• Sü

Südsteiermar ark AUSTRIA

• Fri

Friuli ~ Co Collion N. ITALY

La Lake Cou County ty AVAs

• Wa

Warm to hot days, cool nights, long ha hang ng tim ime (big big diur diurna nal l shif hift)

• Co

Cooler at t alti titu tude

• Div

Diverse geolo logy: hills hillside ide volc lcanic nic so soils, s, hillsi side so soils s of sa sandstone an and shal ale, terrac ace al alluvi vial al soils, an and va valley alluvial soils.

• Flavor profi

file: Good varietal typicity an and ac acid structure, tropical al fruit es ester ers, m , moder erate p e pinea eapple- gr grapefruit, h , her erbal-gr grassy, l , long g fi finish, riper fr fruit fl flavors as desired

Ru Russian Ri River Valley

• Wa

Warm days, cool nights, long hang ti time (big diurnal shift) t)

• Fo

Foggy air-co conditioning

• Div

Diverse geolo logy: gravel, l, aged d sa sandstone, sh shale, well drained

• Va

Varietal expression

• Go

Good ac acid retention

• Flavor profi

file: Great acid structure, tr tropical fruit t esters, pineapple- gr grapefruit, h , her erbal-gr grassy, l , long g fi finish, riper fr fruit fl flavors as desired

So Sout uth A h Africa

St Stellenbosch ch

• Ve

Very ancient soils

• Sa

Sandstone, shale, granitic foothills, sa sandy clay in lower coastal regions

• Co

Cooler th than lati titu tude suggests ts (R (Region II) ) with a cross-wi wind of At Atlantic and Indian Ocean breezes

• Flavor profi

file: Good acidity, tropical sp spicy fruit, lychee, pineapple, le lemon n grass, mine ineralit lity

Ch Chile

Va Valle de Ca Casablanca

• Se

Set t amo mong th the e mo mountains of th the e Coa Coastal Range e (but NOT a lon

• ngitudinal

va valley)

• Te

Temperate, semi-ar arid climate, ad adequate irrigation water

• Str

Strong Paci cific c Ocea cean influen ence ce with th Ca Carner eros

• s-lik

like cool l se seaso sons

• La

Large diurnal temp swings

• Cl

Clou

• ud cover

er slows and exten ends ripen ening

• Fl

Flavors: Green apple, grapefruit, t, fig wi with h some he herbal bal no notes, and and citrus usy cr crisp finish

Ma Marl rlbor

• rou
• ugh

Ne New Z Zealand

• Gl

Glac acial al rock debris, now gravel, sa sand, si silt, so some deep sa sandy lo loams

• “B

“Braided” ” river valley

• Bi

Big diurnal temperatu ture shift

• Wa

Warm season cooled by Antarctic wi winds

• Flavor Profi

file: Firm m acid st structure, pungent nt and racy, ne nettle les, goosebe berry, cit itrus us, he herba baceous us

Loi Loire Valley, France

Sa Sancerr rre / / Po Pouilly- Fum Fumé

• Co

Cold, continental cl clima mate, mo moderated by y Lo Loire R River

• Lo

Long h hours o

• f l

luminosity

• Li

Limestone, f flint, g gravel, c clay

• Fl

Flavor r Profile: great acid stru ructure, gr grapefruit, citrus, nettles, wh white flowers, tr trace smoky, , green, , cat, t, spicy, , mineral no notes es and nd gun un flint

Gr Graves

“B “Bordeaux bl blanc nc”

• Co

Cool cl clima mate, mo moderated by y th the Garonne River r with th At Atlantic maritime effect

• In

Intensely gravelly, well- dr drained ned soils

• Of

Often b blended w with S SEM

• Ba

Barrel ferme mented and aged su sur r lies

• Fl

Flavor r Profile: firm rm acid stru tructu ture, , citru trus, , white peach, , some pith thiness, ,

• ccasional cat,

t, subtl tle to mo mode derate oak k influe uenc nce

Au Austria ia

Sü Südsteierma rmark rk

• A

A very cool

• ol latitude for
• r viticulture:

St Steep, sou

• uth-fa

facing slopes, between 250 an and 350 m elevation

• Fl

Flavors: s: Clean, austere fresh sh fru ruit ex expression, but subtle, with touches of citr trus and minerality ty; someti times paprika spice; always racy acidity ty

It Italy aly

Fr Friuli iuli ~ Col Collio

• La

Layer ers o

• f “

“flysch ch” ~ ~ c calci cium-ri rich marl rl and sa sandstone

• Lea

Lean, p , peb ebbly s soils, o , often en p planted ed o

• n t

ter erraces ces ~ ~ ron ronchi ~ ~ to keep the soil in place

• Fl

Flavors: Light t but t disti tincti tive SB B character with th so some citrus s and waxy xy notes

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References

• Dubourdieu, Denis, “Sau

“Sauvi vignon Blan anc’s s Disti tincti tive Yet t El Elusi sive AROMAS: S: How Ch Chemistry Unlocks Its Secrets”, TONG, N°1, Spring 2009, pp. 19-26

• Lund, Cynthia M., Michelle K. Thompson, Frank Benkwitz, Mark W. Wohler,

Chris M. Triggs, Richard Gardner, Hildegarde Heymann, and Laura Nicolau, “N “New Zeal alan and Sau Sauvi vignon blan anc Di Distince ce Fl Flavor r Characteri ristics: Sensory, Ch Chemical, and Co Consumer Aspects”, Am. J. Enol. Vitic. 60:1 (2009)

• Coetzee, Carien, “G

“Grape-De Deri rived Fru ruity Vo VolatileThiols: A Adjusti ting Sau Sauvi vignon Bl Blanc aroma and flavor complexity”, Wines & Vines, April 2018, pp. 78-80

• Coetzee, Carien, “P

“Prese servi ving an and Increasi asing Thiols: s: Adjusti ting Sau Sauvi vignon Bl Blanc aroma and flavor complexity”, Wines & Vines, May 2018, pp. 68-72

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Sa Sauv uvigno gnon bl n blanc i nc is a a gr grape pe-cham chamel eleo eon. n. It It has as…

• an

an inc ncredi dibl ble me medl dley of flavors to liai aison n with h a a wide de va variety of flavors on the food side…

• “r

“racy” ” acidity idity to refresh h the the pa pala late after each h bit bite…

• st

structure and flavors that embrace rather than fight or cl clash sh… IT IT MAY BE ONE OR OUR MOST te terroir expressive WI WINES. S.

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