Singapore National Climbing Standards SPORT CLIMBING COURSE LEVEL 2 - - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

Singapore National Climbing Standards

SPORT CLIMBING COURSE LEVEL 2

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Passing Standards

• 1. Confident with lead climbing on an easy route
• 2. Correct placement of protection points on a lead climb
• 3. Correct belaying of a lead climber using a friction device
• 4. Correct top out technique on fixed anchor
• 5. Conduct proper pre-climb checks
• 6. Correct use of climbing calls
• 7. Safe equipment handling

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Lead climbing vs Top roping

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Fall factor

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Ropes

Static rope

▪Stretch less than 5%

Dynamic rope

▪30-40% dynamic stretch during a fall

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Protections

Devices employed to reduce risk

• f climber falling to the ground
• 1. Quick draws
• 2. Runners

Quickdraws Runners

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Quickdraws set up

▪Quickdraws have a bolt-end and rope-end ▪Rope-end has a bent or wire gate with a rubber keeper around the carabiner to limit movement ▪Both bolt-end and rope-end carabiners must be facing the same direction ▪Choose different colour carabiners for each end for easy differentiation

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Quickdraws set up

▪Always use a quickdraw equipped with STRING type webbing protection ▪The anchor-end carabiner must be mobile (no keeper). ▪The rope-end carabiner must be fixed (with keeper). ▪Warning: never install two keepers on one quickdraw.

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Quickdraws set up

Bolt-end Rope-end

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Wall bolt

▪Bolts are normally placed on the route at 1 to 2 meters apart

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Clipping into protection

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Clipping into protection

Back clipping

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Direction of clipping

▪Carabiner gate must always face away from the climber's direction of travel ▪The rope in the carabiner must pass through it from the cliff side to the

• utside

▪Incorrect positioning of the quickdraw or the rope could cause the rope to unclip

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Clipping into protection

Z-clipping

▪Climber grabs the rope from below the last clipped bolt and then clips it through a higher bolt creating a Z- shape ▪Climber will not be able to move up due to rope drag ▪Climber will take a bigger fall as he is not protected by the last quick draw

Solution

▪Undo Z-clip by unclipping the rope from the lower draw

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Leg position when leading

Do not place your leg behind the rope

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Top out technique 1

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Top out technique 2

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Lead belay

How to lead belay – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_F1MfVGOzk

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Lead fall

How to lead fall – https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RJZ8OxYP5T4

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Pre-climb checks

• 1. Know the length of the route

▪ Rope must be at lease twice the length of the route ▪ 60m to 70m rope are the most common

• 2. Check the number of bolts on the route
• 3. Bring sufficient quickdraws for the route with at lease 1 extra
• 4. Climber to bring along a safety sling and 2 carabiner (to set up top rope)
• 5. Run the entire rope through your hand to check for damage and remove rope

kinks

• 6. Buddy checks on figure of 8 knot and fiction device carabiner is locked

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Lead climbing commands

Climber Belayer

Calls Actions Calls Actions On rope (Climber tied on to rope) Climb when ready Climbing (Climber ready to climb) Climb on (Belayer acknowledge) Clipping (Clipping into the first draw) Clipped (Clipped into first draw) On Belay Watch me (May fall on the next move) Watching (Prepare to catch fall) Tight / Take (Climber need to rest) Tight (Belayer take in till tight) Safe (When climber clip in his safety) Slack (Climber needs slack to top out) Slack (Give slack to climber) Off belay (Climber is safe wants to be off belay) Off Belay (Go off belay)

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