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Jun 13, 2023 258 likes •912 views

Manufacturing Fabrics to Meet Performance Expectations Karen K. Leonas & Hang Liu Washington State University http://froggyfibers.com/blog/category/fiber/ Pullman http://www.spsj.or.jp/c5/pj/pj06/pj3811.htm 1

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SLIDE 1

http://www.spsj.or.jp/c5/pj/pj06/pj3811.htm http://fronzonibedding.com/wool-the- wonder-fiber.html http://froggyfibers.com/blog/category/fiber/

Karen K. Leonas & Hang Liu

Washington State University Pullman

Manufacturing Fabrics to Meet Performance Expectations

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SLIDE 2
  • The term TEXTILES today is very

encompassing

  • Textiles are versatile and are in

limitless end-uses

2

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SLIDE 3

TEXTILES

  • Textiles
  • Latin term texere

“to weave”

  • Today
  • Fibers
  • Yarns
  • Fabrics (woven, knit, nonwoven)
  • Coloration
  • Finishing
  • End Products

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SLIDE 4

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FIBERS YARNS FABRICS FINISHING

NONWOVENS

Natural Man-made (includes synthetic) Spun Filament Woven Knit Nonwoven Coloration Functional Raw materials Chemicals

END PRODUCT FABRICATION

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SLIDE 5

Fibers

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SLIDE 6

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FIBERS YARNS FABRICS FINISHING

NONWOVENS

Natural Man-made (includes synthetic) Raw materials Chemicals

END PRODUCT FABRICATION

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SLIDE 7

FIBERS

  • Smallest Unit
  • Characteristics to be suitable for textile

fiber

  • Classification
  • Natural or Man-Made
  • Chemical Class
  • Length
  • Staple (short - inches)
  • Filament (long – miles)

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SLIDE 8

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Fiber Classifications

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SLIDE 9

Cellulosic fibers

http://www.cottoninc.com/Nonwovens/CottonN

  • nwovens/

Protein Fiber

Kadolph, Textiles, 10th edition

acetate

Kadolph, Textiles, 10th edition

Fiber Chemical Structures

Natural Fibers Modified Cellulosic

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SLIDE 10

Polyester

http://pslc.ws/macrogcss/pet.html

Nylon 6,6

http://www.eng.ku.ac.th/~mat/MatDB/MatDB/SOURCE /Struc/polymers/rub1/rub1.htm http://www.biotech-

  • ne.com/english/products/orthopedic/series.htm

PLA

Fiber Chemical Structures – con‟t

10

Synthetic Fibers

Degradable Polymer

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SLIDE 11

FIBER PROPERTIES

based on Fiber Structure

  • External
  • Shape
  • Internal
  • Amorphous
  • Crystalline
  • Oriented
  • Molecular Weight
  • Degree of Polymerization

11 Collier, UnderstandingTextiles, 7th edition

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SLIDE 12

Cotton Cotton x-section Linen Linen Wool Wool x-section Textiles Professor

Fiber Micrographs

Natural Fibers

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Rayon x-section (flat) nylon Rayon Nylon x-section (triangle) Polyester Acrylic Textiles Professor

Fiber Micrographs

Man-Made Fibers

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SLIDE 14

Manufactured Fibers –

Production

Steps

  • Polymerization
  • Liquidify
  • using heat or chemicals
  • Extrusion
  • force through spinneret to

form filaments

  • Solidify

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SLIDE 15
  • Methods
  • Wet Spinning
  • Dry Spinning
  • Melt Spinning
  • Electro spinning

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SLIDE 16

http://www.che.vt.edu/Wilkes/electrospinning/electrspinning.html

Electrospinning

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SLIDE 17

Fiber Terminology

Monofilament - single filament of fiber used individually with a denier > 14 Microfiber - multifilament yarns of individual filaments have a denier < 1.

  • typical one denier polyester fiber has a diameter of 10 microns.

Micron-Sized Fibers - fiber size is less the 0.3 denier size best defined in terms of diameter in microns Nanofibers - fibers with diameters less than 0.5 microns. typical nanofibers have a diameter between 50 and 300 nm.

Denier Weight-per-unit-length measurement of a liner material defined as the number of grams per 9000 meters. Can refer to either individual filament or a bundle of filaments (yarn). Other terms used are micro-denier, sub-micron and superfine. 17

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FIBERI.D. CONVENTION AL PROCESSES MFG.PROCESS FIBER DESCRIPTION FIBER SIZE (Microns) SIZE (Microns) FIBER SURF. AREA (Sq-mt/Gr) 1 Conventional Staple or Spunbond One denier fiber, Homopolymer 10.1 0.3 2 Conventional Meltblown Two micron fiber, Homopolymer 2.0 1.4 3 Conventional Electrospun Size/shape as best reported 0.3 9.5

Fiber Characteristic Comparison

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Other Comparisons of Interest

  • Atom ~ 0.3 nm Blood Cell ~ 5000 nm
  • Human Hair ~20,000 to 30,000 nm
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SLIDE 19

Burger et al., Annu. Rev. Mater. Res. 2006

Size comparison of Electrospun Fibers and Conventional Fibers

Diameter of the electrospun fiber is approximately 300nm, and that

  • f the conventionally spun fiber is

10 microns.

http://www.engr.utk.edu/mse/pages/Textiles/Nan

  • fiber%20Nonwovens.htm

A single human hair is usually around 50 ~150 microns.

Slide from Hang Liu’s seminar 10/7/08 19

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SLIDE 20

Advantages of fabrics made of microfibers

  • Lighter
  • Comfortable as the small space between fibers

prevents the loss of body heat but allow air to penetrate.

  • Good drapeability

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SLIDE 21

Yarns

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SLIDE 22

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FIBERS YARNS FABRICS FINISHING

NONWOVENS

Spun Filament

END PRODUCT FABRICATION

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YARNS

  • Generic Term for a group of fibers or

filaments “combined” together to form a long continuous strand

  • Combined by
  • Twist
  • Adhesive
  • Slit film

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SLIDE 24

Terms used to describe yarns

  • Staple/Filament
  • Single/Ply/Cord
  • Low twist/High twist
  • Yarn Size
  • Novelty/Simple

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Yarns con‟t

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SLIDE 25

Filament vs. Staple Yarn

Textiles Professor

Kadolph, Textiles, 10th edition

http://cte1401-01.sp00.fsu.edu/yarn.html

Filament vs. Staple Yarn

Yarns – Filament vs. staple

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SLIDE 26

Characteristics that Influence Yarn Performance

  • Fiber Length (staple)
  • Production method
  • Open end spun

Ring Spun

  • Twist Influences
  • Tenacity
  • Stiffness/Flexibility
  • Bulk
  • Heat conductivity
  • Hardness
  • Abrasion Resistance
  • Luster
  • Smooth/Fuzzy

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SLIDE 27

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YARN SIZE

Direct Systems as number increases, size increases Denier – weight per 9000 meters Tex – weight per 1000 meters Indirect Systems (used more for staple yarns)

As number decreases, size increases Cotton Count - # of 840 yd hanks/lb Worsted Count - # of 560 yd hanks/lb Woolen Count - # of 1600 yd hanks/lb Linen Count - # 300 yd hanks/lb

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SLIDE 28

Fabrics

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SLIDE 29

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FIBERS YARNS FABRICS FINISHING

NONWOVENS

Woven Knit Nonwoven

END PRODUCT FABRICATION

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Fabric Formation

  • Woven
  • Two or more sets of yarns interlacing at right

angles

  • Knit
  • Series of interlocking loops (from one or more

yarns )

  • Nonwoven
  • Directly from filament or fiber

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SLIDE 31

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WOVEN FABRICS & WEAVING

  • WOVEN FABRICS:
  • The precise manner in which the warp & fill

yarns interlace with each other determines the structure (interlacing sequence)

  • Different interlacing sequences lead to different

fabric structures

  • Plain
  • Twill
  • Satin
  • Jacquard

Common Names: Chambray, Denim, Calico, Corduroy

  • Sequence of interlacings have effect on fabric

properties

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SLIDE 32

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Woven Fabric

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SLIDE 33

Kadolph, Textiles, 10th edition

Woven Fabrics

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FABRIC COUNT Influences….

  • Interlacings
  • Yarn Mobility
  • Tensile Strength
  • Drapeability
  • Flexibility
  • Covering power
  • Permeability
  • Tear Strength
  • Abrasion Resistance

Fabric Count – Number of yarns per square inch

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SLIDE 35

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KNITTING

  • Fabric formed by a series of interlocking

loops from 1 or more yarns

  • 2nd most widely used method of fabric

construction

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SLIDE 36

Knits – con’t

  • Stitch Type
  • Gauge – number of loops per inch used in

description

  • In general, when compared with woven fabrics,

knit fabrics

  • Are more elastic
  • Have higher porosity
  • Have higher resiliency
  • Have higher shrinkage potential

Knit fabric descriptors &characteristics

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SLIDE 37

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Nonwoven Fabrics

Typical End-Uses

  • Industrial
  • Apparel
  • Interiors

End Properties controlled by

  • fiber properties
  • geometrical arrangement of fibers in web
  • binder properties
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SLIDE 38

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Nonwoven Fabrics

FIBERS

fundamental unit of the structure

  • strength
  • absorbency
  • tactile

Production WEB FORMATIONBONDING= FINAL PRODUCT

  • Fiber Orientation is critical to performance
  • Distances between fibers are several times greater than

the fiber diameter

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SLIDE 39

Nonwoven Fabrics - Formation

  • I. Web Formation
  • Carded
  • Crosslaid
  • Air Laid
  • II. Bonding
  • Thermal
  • Chemical
  • Mechanical Entanglement
  • Needle punched
  • hydroentangled

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Textiles Professor Textiles Professor

Air Laid, Thermal bonded Carded, Hydroentangled

Comparison of Webs

(Air laid vs Carded)

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Specific Types of Nonwoven Systems

  • Spunbonded*
  • Meltblown*
  • Spunlaced
  • Needlepunched
  • Dry laid
  • Wet laid

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Mechanical Entanglement

  • Hydroentanglement

“Spunlaced”

  • Needle Punched

42 Textiles Professor

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SLIDE 43

Spunbond Meltblown

http://www.kasen.co.jp/english/product/line/work.html

Specific Types of Nonwoven Systems

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Comparison of

Spunbond & Meltblown Nonwoven Fabrics

Spunbond

  • Random fiber web
  • Thermally bonded

Meltblown

  • Random fiber web
  • Fibers are „fibrillated‟
  • Thermally bonded
  • Fibers in Meltblown webs are smaller in

diameter than those in spunbonded webs

  • Lighter web and better filtration efficiency

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Composite fabric – Meltblown & Spunbond

http://www.hillsinc.net/nanomeltblownfabric.shtml

250 nanometer average diameter meltblown on 20 micron diameter spunbond 45

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SLIDE 46

Composite Fabric Spunbonded Meltblown Spunbonded

Top View of SMS Cross section of SMS

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SLIDE 47

http://web.mit.edu/rutledgegroup/projects/el ectrospinning.html

Electrospun nonwoven fiber web Electrospun blends of PLA and PGA

http://www.spsj.or.jp/c5/pj/pj06/pj3811.htm

Electronspun Fiber Webs

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Finishing

http://www.fibersource.com/f-tutor/q-guide.htm

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FIBERS YARNS FABRICS FINISHING

NONWOVENS

Coloration Functional

END PRODUCT FABRICATION

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TEXTILE FINISHING

Methods of Classification: Chemical or Mechanical Functional or Aesthetic

Finishing includes dyeing, printing, durable press, flame retardant, napping…..

Dyeing Functional finishing

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SLIDE 51

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Dyeing & Printing: Adding Color to Textiles

Purposes: Aesthetic & Functional Coloring Agents: Dyes – applied to, or formed in textile substrate in molecularly dispersed form bonding mechanism between colorant and substrate Pigments – particulate which is insoluble in textile substrate attached with adhesive/binder/trapped

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SLIDE 52
  • Colorfastness
  • Retaining initial color through use and care
  • Instable coloring agent
  • Poor fixation to substrate
  • Variety of exposure agents
  • light, laundering, perspiration, drycleaning…
  • Colour Index (CI)
  • Reference Source for dyes/pigments

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SLIDE 53

Colorant Classification

  • CI Classifications – Name includes
  • Class
  • Acid

Azoic  Basic  Direct

  • Disperse Sulfur

Vat Pigments

  • Color category
  • Specific number
  • Other Classifications considerations
  • Molecular Weight
  • Source
  • Chemical Groups
  • End-use

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SLIDE 54

Application of Colorants

  • Applied at fiber, yarn of fabric stages
  • For applications here
  • Fiber – prior to extrusion
  • Dyes or pigments used

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Functional Finishes

  • Typical applications
  • Incorporated into fiber prior to spinning
  • Topical finish applied to substrate
  • Functional Finishes
  • Durable Press

Water Repellent

  • Flame Retardant

 Flame Resistant

  • Antimicrobial

 Moth Resistant

  • Anti-slip

 Light Reflectant

  • Anti-static

 UV Stablization

  • Temperature Regulating

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Degradation of Textile Materials

  • Physical/Mechanical forces
  • Chemical breakdown of, or interaction with

substrate

  • Can be BOTH

Physical/Mechanical and Chemical

  • Sometimes synergistic impact

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SLIDE 57

Factors that Impact Degradation - Summary

  • Fiber
  • Size
  • Chemical structure
  • Molecular weight
  • Degree of Polymerization
  • Crystallinity
  • Yarn
  • Size
  • Twist
  • Fiber length (if staple)

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SLIDE 58

Factors that Impact Degradation - Summary

  • Fabric
  • Woven – weight, thickness, yarn count,

interlacing pattern

  • Knit – gauge, weight, thickness
  • Nonwoven – weight, thickness, bonding

mechanism

  • Finish
  • Block degrading agents
  • Chemical structure
  • Location within structure
  • Interaction with structure and

environment

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SLIDE 59

That’s all folks!

59

Th Thank ank yo you! u! Qu Ques estions? tions?

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  • First person to market as advantage! Same in

fashion industry

  • Light transmission – measurement –impacted by

pigmentation, yarns per inch, weight

  • Color selective – different color mulch
  • Difference in temperature
  • Shade cloth
  • Roll up sides-flexibility
  • Permeability-porosity - Competing demands –

allow for air circulation vs heat loss due to air flow

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SLIDE 63
  • Competing needs - air flow for circulation;

retaining heat……

  • Want degradation but not blow away…..
  • Spectral use of plastics
  • Solarization good in preventing/killing disease –

what spectral distribution is effective – can design material to allow the wavelength of light to transmit?

  • Use of LED lights to control spectral wavelength –

this connects to degradation

  • Control moisture – want to dissipate
  • In cold regions do you need to be concerned with

materials becoming brittle

  • Wind resistance – is the a materials issue or a

design issue

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SLIDE 64
  • Could plastic begin to degrade when spraying

with microbial – this works with

  • If degrades too fast can slow with hay on top

and if so how much?

Weatherometer

  • Laboratory acceleration

spectral distribution dew cycles