Cannabis: The Herb Properties & Cultivation Founded in 2014; - - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

Cannabis: The Herb

Properties & Cultivation

• Founded in 2014; broke ground on facility in

2015; started cultivating late in 2017; first harvest in early 2018.

• Highest vertical cannabis garden in the world

(6 levels).

• Highest-yielding cannabis operation in the

world (per square foot).

• Grow short plants at very high density –

known as the “Sea of Green” method.

• 36 plants per 16-square-foot area (2.25 plants

per square foot).

• Strong focus on genetics & breeding.
• Currently applying for a nursery license and

creating a new nursery facility 100% dedicated to breeding, genetic selection, and propagation.

General Principles

Photoperiods The cannabis plant is “photoperiodic,” which means its growth stages are dictated by the light/dark periods it is subjected to. Plants require about 16 hours of light in a 24-hour period to stay in a full vegetative state; and 12 hours of light and 12 hours of dark to trigger the flowering stage. In June/July when the daylight hours are longer the plant will remain in a vegetative state (growing taller and leafier). As the daylight hours start to get shorter into Mid- August the plants will gradually start to show signs

• f flowering (and vegetative growth with slow).

When starting seeds or clones inside over the winter it’s vital that you supplement with artificial lighting (usually 24 hours) to maintain the plant in its vegetative state.

General Principles

Choosing the Right Strain Cannabis seeds come in Feminized (100% female) and Regular (50/50 M/F). Choose Feminized (unless you plan on breeding). Autoflower is a relatively new type of strain (all have been crossbred with the early flowering Ruderalis). Autoflower strains are not photoperiodic; they start to flower automatically after they have grown for a short amount of time. They finish early, but generally have less THC. These strains cannot be cloned. The other two main categories are Sativa and Indica (or Hybrids combining both). When growing outdoors in Canada, choose an Indica for an earlier and shorter flowering time. Another feature when choosing a strain for

• utdoor cultivation in Canada is mould

resistance.

General Principles

Watering/Irrigation Overwatering = the single most common mistake among new growers. Pots should be soaked thoroughly; you should see 10%-15% of the water applied to the top of the pot come out of the bottom. Wait until the pot is almost completely dry before watering it again (lift it to determine if it is light). Overwatering causes the porous spaces to fill up with water, creating wet zones which prevent

• xygen from reaching the roots.

This allows anaerobic fungi to thrive and causes root rot which eventually kills plants.

General Principles

Macronutrients Nitrogen: The most important element for cannabis plant growth. Component of chlorophyll (responsible for green colour & making sugars through photosynthesis). Cannabis will assimilate ¾ of the nitrogen it will use in its lifetime during vegetative phase. Phosphorus: Provides the energy element for cannabis plants. Important for early root development, disease resistance, nutrient uptake, flower formation & yield. Should be increased during flowering. Potassium: Stimulates early growth, promotes disease resistance, improves efficiency of water use. Promotes formation of strong cell walls, reducing susceptibility to powdered mildew. Used in higher levels at end stage of flowering.

General Principles

Micronutrients Calcium: Quality element in cannabis, responsible for sugar production. Higher uptake of calcium = higher brix (sugars), more flavor, more aroma. Using amino acids in fertilizer helps break down (chelate) calcium and improve uptake. Magnesium: Central atom for chlorophyll, has a direct impact on uptake of solar energy. Easily leached out through watering, should be added regularly to avoid deficiencies.

Ideal Ratio = 4:2:1 Potassium: Calcium: Magnesium

General Principles

Water pH Stratford tap water = ~7.23 pH The uptake for micronutrients (Iron, Manganese, Boron, Copper/Zinc, Molybdenum) is not ideal at 7.23 pH. To correct this, it is important to adjust the pH of the water you are applying to your plants to 6.3-6.5 pH. There is a product at grow shops called “pH Down” you can add to bring down the pH of your irrigation water. You can also use powdered citric acid (available at Bulk Barn), or good

• ld lemon juice.

General Principles

Security

Once flowers start filling in (September/October) security measures become important: Fairly inexpensive video cameras are available that connect to Wi-Fi and allow you to monitor from anywhere via your phone. These can also come with motion activated alarms/sirens, 2-way voice communication, and floodlights. Signage indicating premises are under surveillance can act as a deterrent. Creating a trellis system made of metal wire farm fencing prevents/slows down attempts to steal. Entire chain link cages (similar to outdoor dog kennels) are a more permanent solution. A cheaper solution is to surround your garden with cow bells hung on fishing lines, which will cause a commotion and likely send would-be thieves running.

General Principles

Drying & Curing The goal of drying and curing is the slow release of moisture over time. Proper drying/curing is the key to producing smooth, well burning, flavourful cannabis. When done correctly, drying/curing stops the degradation process before the terpenes and cannabinoids evaporate or transform. It is critical to prepare enough dedicated space for the initial hang drying process. This includes accounting for the smell, which can permeate an entire house! If storing for 6 months or less, glass mason jars are fine, but if you’re planning to store longer it’s recommended to vacuum pack to preserve freshness and keep in a fridge (not freezer!).

THE OUTDOOR CANNABIS CALENDAR

Monthly Tasks For Outdoor Cultivation

FEBRUARY

• Start seeds
• Seeds should be germinated before planting

(NOT direct-sown). There are two common methods:

• Place seeds between two moistened pieces of

paper towel. Once the seed “pops” and a small root appears transplant it ¼ inch deep into a 3-inch pot containing soil.

• Fill a 3-inch pot with soil and use your

fingertip to create a ¼ inch deep hole in the top surface. Mist daily with water until the seed pops and the root starts to form usually for 3-4 days (but up to 14 days if they’re stubborn!) then cover with soil.

• For both methods, remember to direct the

sprouting root downwards when planting.

• A typical setup for starting seeds (and/or

clones) includes a T5 florescent tube fixture in a room at approximately 72-75°F and 60% Relative Humidity.

MARCH

• Transplant seedlings into bigger pots.
• Begin feeding weekly with vegetative “Grow”
• nutrients. Cannabis-specific nutrients are

recommended over generic fertilizers (e.g. MiracleGro).

• Once four or five “nodes” appear you should

pinch-off or “top” the seedling to encourage fuller growth from the lower nodes (making the plant bushier rather than growing straight up as a single stalk).

APRIL

• Start clones (cut from the original seedlings you

planted) or buy/find rooted clones (be mindful of your 4 plant limit!).

• There are two equipment formats for cloning:
• Aeroponic chambers create a mist for roots to grow in

while cuttings are suspended in rubber foam “pucks.”

• Rockwool or Oasis cubes are soaked for one hour

with 5.5 pH water and placed in a tray with a clear plastic dome over it.

• Cut 3-4-inch shoots from an existing plant and

immediately dip the bottom of the freshly-cut stem in Stim Root (powdered/gel rooting hormone).

• Immediately put the cut stem into the hole in the

soaked rockwool/Oasis cubes or the rubber foam

• pucks. Waiting will allow air bubbles to form.
• New roots should start to appear after 10-14 days

and the clones should be ready to transplant into pots with soil after “hardening off.”

MAY

• Choose & prep your outdoor site
• Find a location that offers full sun during the

day and ZERO light at night.

• Dig a BIG hole 3’x3’x3’ minimum.
• Consider visibility and security when choosing

your site location.

• Fill with soil mix:
• Start with loose non-native soil (e.g. peat-based

mixes with lots of perlite like ProMix HP).

• Add amendments (worm castings, triple mix,

rock salts, bone meal, blood meal).

• For the last week of May, “harden off” plants

started indoors by placing them outside (but not in direct sunlight) during the days and bringing them back inside at night.

JUNE

• Transplant plants from pots into your prepped

holes in week one.

• Install chicken wire around young, tender

plants to prevent damage from small rodents, rabbits and deer.

• Apply vegetative “Grow” nutrients by mixing

weekly with pH-adjusted water during this phase.

• Prune plants by clipping off ends of long

branches, encouraging thicker, bushier growth

• You can also “train” longer branches by staking
• r tying them down. Horizontal branches will

sprout multiple upward shoots rather than becoming a single, huge vertical “cola.” Multiple smaller tops rather than single huge

• nes also helps prevent mould and “bud rot”

when the flowers are fully formed.

JULY

• Install trellis netting. Two layers are advised;
• ne layer should hold up the bottom halves of

the heavy flowers, and a second layer 12 inches higher will hold up the flower tops.

• Slow-release fertilizers containing nitrogen

should not be applied after mid-July.

AUGUST

• In mid-August switch nutrients to a weekly

dose of Flowering formula (aka “Bloom”) in anticipation of the plant switching from vegetative growth to flower production.

• Bloom formulas have higher percentages of

phosphorous (which promotes tighter node formation and flower production).

• Once flowers start to appear (which is actually

week 2 of flowering), remove bottom vegetation (aka de-noding). You can strip all the small branches and leaves below the first layer of trellis to encourage upper growth of flowers.

• Generally plants will double in volume between

mid-August and mid-September.

SEPTEMBER

• Prune off any dead/wilting leaves (this is

normal when nitrogen is reduced).

• Monitor for Powdery Mildew; if found, water

leaves first to prevent spreading and manually pull leaves with visible PM off.

• After 4 weeks of visible flowers (which is

actually the 5th week of flowering, usually the last 2 weeks of September), add more potassium to the weekly nutrient feeding mix to promote ideal “ripening.”

• PK Boost is a product that can be added to Bloom

nutrients to increase potassium.

• Alternatively, there are nutrients labelled as

“Finishing” which have increased potassium.

OCTOBER

• The most common mistake is to harvest before the

plant is ready. Ripeness is key, and plants should take 8 to 10 weeks of flowering to ripen fully.

• Plants can put on 25% of their total flower weight

and dramatically increase cannabinoids in the final 10 days.

• Cannabis can withstand – and even benefit from –

exposure to light frosts (0˚C down to -2˚C). Light frost decreases the uptake of phosphorous, which

• ften causes plants to turn purple in the fall.
• If the weather report is calling for a hard freeze

(lower than -2˚C) you need to harvest or cover up your plants.

• A plant is ready to harvest when 90% of its

flowers’ “hairs” have turned orange. If you have access to magnification, you can also look at the bud trichomes (mushroom shaped glands), which should all have turned milky white (with 25% appearing amber in colour) when the plant is ready to harvest.

OCTOBER

• For normal harvest, cut the stalks well above the

roots, pull off all the big feeder leaves, and hang flower in a cool, dark environment with indirect fans circulating air. Ideal conditions for drying are 50% room humidity and 65˚F.

• You do not want to dry your flowers as quickly

as possible as this will create a harsh flavour. It should take several days minimum.

• The initial drying process is complete when you

can bend a small stalk and it snaps rather than

• bends. At this point the flower is ready for

trimming and curing.

NOVEMBER

• Trimming cannabis flowers by hand can be

extremely time consuming. You can cut down on trimming time by only trimming the top flowers and leaving the smaller buds untrimmed to be used in edibles.

• Once trimmed, place buds in glass mason jars for

final curing. Fill a jar halfway to the top and seal;

• pen the jar daily to release any gasses.
• You can add a 62% Boveda humidity pack to a jar

to ensure the flower remains at ideal humidity.

• After opening the jars daily for at least two weeks

(preferably a month!), you can fill them with the cured cannabis and keep the 62% Boveda pack in (replace when it becomes dried out).

• Store sealed jars in a dry, cool, and dark
• environment. Exposure to air and light deteriorates

THC over time.