Backyard Gardener North Peace Applied Research Association Lance - - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

Composting and Vermiculture for the Backyard Gardener

North Peace Applied Research Association Lance Ouellette, M.Sc., CCA-ON, Assistant Manager November 18th, 2019

The Idea of Composting

We want to turn this Into this

Yet why do we often get this?

What is compost?

• Composting is the biological

decomposition of organic waste such as food or plant material by bacteria, fungi, worms and other organisms under controlled aerobic (occurring in the presence of oxygen) conditions.

• The end-result of composting is an

accumulation of partially decayed

• rganic matter called humus.

Aerobic Composting Stages

Mesophilic: organism that grows best in moderate temperature, typically between 14 and 21 °C. Thermophilic: organism that thrives at relatively high temperatures, between 41 and 122 °C

Guidelines for Composting Parameters

Conditions Reasonable Range Preferred Range C:N ratio 20:1 – 40:1 25:1 – 30:1 Moisture Content 40-65% 50-60% Oxygen concentrations Greater than 5% Much greater than 5% Particle Size 1/8 – 1/2 Varies pH 5.5 – 9.0 6.5 – 8.0 Temperature (⁰F) 110 – 150 130 – 140

Carbon to Nitrogen Ratios

• Microorganisms use carbon for both energy and growth, while nitrogen is essential

for protein production and reproduction.

Feedstocks C:N Wood 700:1 Sawdust 500:1 Straw 80:1 Leaves 60:1 Cornstocks 60:1 Fruit waste 35:1 Rotted manure 20:1 Grass clippings 19:1 Food waste 15:1 Alfalfa hay 12:1 Excess N leads to the production of ammonia and unpleasant odors. Solution: Add

• browns. Turn over

compost heap more often.

< 20:1

N becomes

• limiting. Process

slows dramatically. Solution: Can be countered by reducing particle

• size. Add greens.

> 40:1

How do I achieve the right C:N Ratio?

General rule of thumb

• You want to have 4 times

as many browns as greens

• If in doubt, put more

browns.

• Excel Spreadsheet – C:N

ratio calculator available

Preferred feedstocks

Tips for Filling up your Composter

• Layering allows for:
• Efficient distribution of browns to

greens (maintaining adequate C:N ratio).

• Improves aeration, thus may not

have to mix as often.

• If layering is done correctly, it should

allow you to identify problems more easily (too moist, too much greens, etc).

Moisture

Backyard watering Commercial watering

• The composting process requires water!
• Rule of thumb, it should be the consistency of

the wrung-out sponge.

• Too moist
• The pile will subside and eventually become

anaerobic.

• Too dry
• The microorganisms won’t be able to thrive.
• The composting process will halt completely.

Aeration

Tumbler Composter Mixing with a pitchfork

• Backyard compost piles should be mixed and

turnover once every 2 weeks.

• If you turn over the pile too often (i.e once a day)
• You may disturb the thermophilic process by

cooling it.

• More of an issue when outside temperature

are low.

• If you don’t turn over the pile often enough
• It may lead to anaerobic conditions
• Also makes it difficult to assess the overall

conditions of the pile.

Particle size

• The rate of aerobic decomposition increases

with smaller particle size

• May also reduce the effectiveness of
• xygen movement within the pile.
• Review pile often to make sure no

matting occurs, particularly at the bottom

• f the pile.
• Optimum composting conditions
• Ranging from 1/8 to 2 inches average
• diameter. Best to cover the range, if

possible.

Finished compost covers a wide range of particle sizes.

Temperature

• Maintaining the temperatures

between 43 and 66 ⁰C is ideal.

• Necessary to destroy

pathogens, weed seeds and fly larvae.

• Should feel warm to the touch.
• If you are unable to increase the

compost’s temperature, you may have completed the active stage

• f composting.

Time

• The length of the active composting stage will

depend on:

• The moisture added to the pile.
• Frequency of turning.
• Feedstocks used (C:N ratios)
• Length of the thermophilic stage.
• The amount of time required varies significantly

with the previously mentioned factors.

• 3-4 weeks under ideal conditions.
• 10-14 weeks for dairy cattle waste.

Curing

• Curing is a very important stage, and
• ften neglected part of the

composting process.

• Occurs at mesophilic conditions
• Immature compost can contain

high levels of organic acids (high C:N ratio)

• The curing stage begins once the

compost pile no longer reheats after turning.

• Usually last 3-4 weeks.

Managing a Compost Heap Over Winter

• More challenging to do, but still

possible! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X y417xt-bco

• The idea is to maintain your pile in

the thermophilic stage between 41 and 122 °C (106 and 252 °F).

• Requires careful monitoring.

Managing a Compost Heap Over Winter

1) Do not turn the pile as much (i.e once a month)

• Frequent turning may result in heat escape.

2) Reduce the size of your compost pieces (i.e. particle size). 3) Keep the pile covered over the winter. 4) When adding water, it should be warm. 5) To avoid trips to the compost, keep a compost bucket in the house with a tight-fitting lid

• Proper layering should reduce odors.
• Scraps will be partly decomposed by the time they make it to the

compost heap.

Aerobic Composting Methods

Advantages Disadvantages 1) Static pile

• Convenient to set up.
• Easy to monitor.
• Cost-efficient.
• Exposed to the elements.

2) Turned windrow

• Can process high volumes.
• Backyard gardeners may not have

enough volume. 3) Aerated static pile

• Convenient to set up.
• Improved aeration when

compare to the static pile concept

• Beware of the compost condition

at the bottom of the pile. 4) Tumbler

• Convenient way to aerate

your compost pile.

• May be costly.
• Volume may be a limiting factor

for backyard gardeners.

Anaerobic Composting Method - Bokashi

• Bokashi composting process relies on

inoculated bran to ferment kitchen waste, including meat and dairy, into a safe soil builder and nutrient-rich tea for your plants.

• End product is partially decayed organic

matter that will decompose rapidly in your garden soils.

• https://youtu.be/EzpovMjq434

Anaerobic Composting Method - Bokashi

• Advantage versus standard composting process
• Ideal C:N of 10:1 compared to 30:1 in a

normal composting bin.

• Decreased reliance on carbon inputs,

which are often limiting.

• Able to host a wider variety of feedstocks

including meat, dairy, oily products.

• Timeline
• 2 weeks in the bucket, and 2-4 weeks in

the soil.

Anaerobic Composting Method - Bokashi

• Compost tea must be emptied regularly (every 2 days),

and can be used as: 1) Nutrient-rich fertilizer

• Dilute 100x for plant use.

2) Compost enhancer

• Millions of microbes can serve as inoculum in

compost pile. 3) Drain unblocker

• The bokashi bacteria can help to unblock clogged

drains and are beneficial to the water treatment works as well.

Black soldier fly composting

• Are normal inhabitants of compost piles during the
• summer. Larvae are voracious eaters and help

speed up the composting process.

Ver ermicultur miculture e or

• r Ver

ermi mi-composting composting

• Vermicomposting in an aerobic process.
• There are two processes happening

concurrently a worm bin:

• 1. Normal compositing process
• 2. Addition of litter (non-burrowing)

worms to turnover the organic material in nutrient dense material, otherwise known as worm castings.

• Biggest advantage compared to the standard composting process is that it is

approximately 3x faster.

Time-lapse Vermiculture

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9Mnf9ysNSs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Z6FdcIuEfg

Worm Anatomy

Worm Species Suitable

• There are several worm species in the epigeic family that are suitable for

the composting process, including:

• Red wigglers
• European nightcrawlers
• African nightcrawlers
• Malaysian Blue Worm

Red Wigglers (Eisenia foetida)

A runaway favorite of all composting worms with gardeners. They are one

• f the most adaptable of the non-burrowing types.
• 1. They eat a lot: as much as half their weight

each day.

• 2. They reproduce a lot: double their

population in 90 days.

• 3. They are not picky eaters: consume a

variety of organic materials.

• 4. They adapt to any environment: too moist,

too dry, low to high pH.

Normal inhabitants of a worm bin

Springtails Pill bugs Red mites Pot worms Fruit Flies Millipedes Centipedes Microbes

Types of Vermi-Composters

• Stackable Unit
• Efficient in separating feeding tray

from casting tray.

• Worms will migrate to feeding

tray.

• Spout at the bottom for collecting

compost tea.

• Can be costly 150-300$ CAD.

Things to consider: will have to re-moisten

• ften.

Types of Vermi-Composters

• Home-built unit
• Only has one chamber for the worms.
• Can become too moist if not well

drained.

• Cost-effective 15-40$ CAD.

Things to consider : compost is usually too

• wet. Add shredded paper to decrease

excess moisture.

Commercial Worm Farms

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgWY_AWrcK8

1) Worm bins

• Any 5 gallon bins.

2) Bedding

• Shredded newspaper, sawdust, coconut coir, straw, etc.

3) Water

• To establish base moisture for the bin.

4) Worms

• Red wigglers (Eisenia foetida) are preferred.

5) Food source

• Kitchen scraps. No dairy, meat or oily products. No citrus.

6) Grits

• Egg shells and/or rock dust.

Build Your Own

Build Your Own

• Only add worms once the bin is

established.

• Best to wait a few weeks before

adding worms.

• Monitor closely for the first few

weeks after introduction.

• Worms will feed slowly at first.
• Be careful not to over-feed.

Avoiding the Pitfalls – Vermicuture

1) The container

• 5 gallons (22.7 liters) or more is preferable.
• Worms are sensitive to light, so it is recommended to use a dark
• r opaque colored container.

2) The site

• Maintain ambient air temperature between 10 and 26C.
• If left outside during the summer months, it is recommended to

put it in the shade to limit daily temperature variations.

• Worms will not survive if the temperature drops below 10 C (50 F).

Avoiding the Pitfalls – Vermiculture

3) Moisture

• Maintain moisture between 50 to 70%.
• Squeeze test should yield 1 or 2 drops.
• In most cases you shouldn’t have to water it often.
• The stacker requires a little more water.

4) Food Scrap Characteristics

• Avoid putting meat, dairy or bones into the worm bin, as they may

attract vermin.

• Consider worms as a very bland vegetarians.

5) Pests

• Gnats may come from compost that is too moist.
• The solution: add more bedding and/or increase drainage holes.
• Fruit flies are usually attracted to material left on the surface.
• The solution: always bury food wastes.
• Red mites are normal inhabitant of worm bin. You may find them on the

lid of your worm bin.

• The solution:
• You can always put more bedding to reduce the moisture.
• Take the bin outside for a few minutes; the mites will congregate in

groups, and you can remove them by hand.

Avoiding the Pitfalls – Vermiculture

Red wiggler suppliers in Alberta

The Avant Gardener FloweringFootprints@Gmail.com Edmonton (west end) Phone: 780-238-1237 Butterfly Wings n' Wishes (worms, workshops) Edmonton, AB Phone: 780-462-1839 Red Wigglers Edmonton Red.Wigglers.Edmonton@gmail.com Edmonton AB Phone: 780-668-6581 Soaring Spirit Soils searc177@gmail.com St Albert, AB Phone: 780-719-8452

Vermiculture Canada Site 8 Box 23 RR 2 Tofield AB T0B 4J0 Phone: 780-662-3309 Toll free 1-866-225-5036 Vibrant Health Network 10727 78 Avenue Edmonton, AB T6E 1P7 Phone: 780-909-9085 Worm Wishes (worms, castings, and workshops) Millet, AB llrainville@gmail.com ZZ's Organic Earth (worms, castings, tea) Spruce Grove, AB Phone: 587-341-1382

Red wiggler suppliers in Alberta