24.04.19 Swiss grapes - Europe's hidden gems Swiss grapes - Europe's hidden gems Wine Grapes Wine Grapes Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, José Vouillamoz DNA profiling reveals their origins DNA profiling reveals their origins www.winegrapes.org Dr José Vouillamoz - Dr José ouillamoz - Wine & Grapes Consulting - Switzerland Wine & Grapes Consulting - Switzerland @JoseGrapes - www.josevouillamoz.com First ever winner of all 6 major wine book awards 2012-13 Viticulture in Viticulture in Switzerland Switzerland References 2009 2011 2017 2018 14’748 ha (0.2% world surface area) 1
24.04.19 Pre-roman and roman viticulture Pre-roman and roman viticulture Grapes possibly cultivated before the Roman era Grapes possibly cultivated before the Roman era Grape pips from the archaeological site Gamsen/Waldmatte near Brig/Valais (800-500 BC) 3000 BC? 100 – 300 AD 800 BC? 100 – 700 AD Grapes possibly cultivated before the Roman era Grapes possibly cultivated before the Roman era Grapes possibly cultivated before the Roman era Grapes possibly cultivated before the Roman era Pollen diagram in Montorge/Sion/Valais (800-600 BC) « Trottola » jars – celtic clay vessels in tombs (300-200 BC) 2
24.04.19 Roman era Roman era Dramatic vineyards Dramatic vineyards Roman pruning knives in Valais (2 nd - 8 th AD) Vaud – Lavaux UNESCO heritage Ticino High cost of labour 400-1500 hrs/ha Valais Zurich [Bordeaux 300] Importation, Importation, e exportation and consumption xportation and consumption Viticulture in Viticulture in Switzerland Switzerland ≈ 1% 65% of the wines importation produced 35% domestic consumption > 252 grape varieties (18.5 % world’s grapes) 3
24.04.19 168 authorized varieties in the Swiss 168 authorized varieties in the Swiss AOC AOC Grape varieties Grape varieties cultivated cultivated in in Switzerland Switzerland (out of 252) (out of 252) Canton AOC Zurich 85 Wine grapes by colour Predominant wine grapes Vaud 66 Bâle-Campagne, Bâle-Ville, Soleure 62 Appenzell RE et RI, Glaris, Saint-Gall et Scha ff house 60 Lac de Bienne 58 Valais 57 Others Argovie 56 27% Pinot noir White 29% Grisons 52 42% Autres cantons 52 Red Genève 49 58% Merlot Lucerne 48 8% Fribourg 45 Chasselas 26% Schwytz 31 Gamay Lac de Thoune 27 9% Tessin 24 Neuchâtel 12 Vouillamoz 2017. Cépages Suisses – Histoires et Origines. Ed. Favre, Lausanne. 160 pp Grape names in Switzerland – a versatile concept Grape names in Switzerland a versatile concept Three Three categories categories of of wine wine grape grape varieties varieties O ffi cial name Swiss name Region Indigenous Traditionnal Allogenous Arvine Petite Arvine Valais (born in Switzerland) (introduced <1900) (introduced >1900) Chasselas Fendant Valais Gros Bourgogne Plantscher Valais Marsanne Ermitage Valais 80 23 150 Moscato Giallo Muscat du Pays Valais Müller-Thurgau Riesling × Sylvaner Switzerland Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains Muscat Valais Pinot Blanc Weissburgunder Eastern Switzerland Heritage Pinot Syrah Pinot Bianco Tessin Pinot Gris Malvoisie Valais 21 Gamay Viognier Grauburgunder Eastern Switzerland Pinot Grigio Ticino Crossings Sylvaner Nebbiolo Savagnin Blanc Heida, Païen Valais Sylvaner Johannisberg Valais Gamay Plant Robert Vaud 16 Muscat Dunkelfelder Cornalin Humagne Rouge Valais Mondeuse Noire Gros Rouge Vaud Hybrids Savagnin Aligoté Pinot Noir Blauburgunder, Clevner Eastern Switzerland Servagnin Vaud 43 etc. etc. Pinot Précoce Frühburgunder Eastern Switzerland Rouge du Pays Cornalin Valais Rouge de Fully Durize Valais Vouillamoz 2017. Cépages Suisses – Histoires et Origines. Ed. Favre, Lausanne. 160 pp 4
24.04.19 21 heritage grape varieties in Switzerland 21 heritage grape varieties in Switzerland Recent crossings @ Recent crossings @ Agroscope Agroscope National Research Station National Research Station Variety Crossing Year Ha Aim Charmont Chasselas × Chardonnay 1965 10 ì sugar in Chasselas Räuschling Doral Chasselas × Chardonnay 1965 35 ì sugar in Chasselas Weiss Schwarzer Gamaret Reichensteiner × Gamay 1970 430 ì Anthocyans, Botrytis resistance Erlenbacher Garanoir Reichensteiner × Gamay 1970 228 ì Anthocyans, Botrytis resistance Hitzkircher Completer Mara Reichensteiner × Gamay 1970 13 ì Anthocyans, Botrytis resistance Diolinoir Pinot Noir × Robin Noir 1970 125 ì Anthocyans Galotta Ancellotta × Gamay 1981 46 ì Anthocyans Chasselas 3733 ha Amigne, Arvine, Cornalin, Carminoir Cabernet Sauvignon × Pinot Noir 1982 11 ì Ripeness, Botrytis resistance Diolle, Eyholzer Roter, Goron 565.8 ha Bondola de Bovernier, Gros Divico Gamaret × Bronner 1996 30 ì Resistance to Botrytis, Powdery Bondoletta 3.8 % Bourgogne, Grosse Arvine, Mildew, Downey Mildew Himbertscha, Humagne Blanc, Total 928 6.3% of the surfaces Lafnetscha, Rèze, Rouge de Fully, Rouge du Pays Vouillamoz 2017. Cépages Suisses – Histoires et Origines. Ed. Favre, Lausanne. 160 pp Vouillamoz 2017. Cépages Suisses – Histoires et Origines. Ed. Favre, Lausanne. 160 pp What is a grape variety? What is a grape variety? Pinot How does a new grape cultivar appear? Father × Grape seed Mother cuttings layering Mutation Mutation Plant Pinot Gris Pinot Noir Pinot Blanc Vegetative propagation Savagnin Mutation Mutation 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Clones Savagnin Blanc/ Savagnin Rose/ Savagnin Rose Aromatique/ Traminer Weiss/ Traminer Rot Traminer Aromatico/ Grape cultivar Heida Gewürztraminer 5
24.04.19 What is a grape variety? What is a grape variety? Pinot Noir mutation Pinot Gris mutation Tempranillo mutation Cabernet Sauvignon mutations (with sectorial chimeras) (with sectorial chimeras) (‘malian’ and ‘shalistin’) at Clegett Wines (Australia) What is a grape variety? Four important grape varieties in Switzerland GRAPE VARIETY – A clone, or series of related clones, Pinot propagated vegetatively from a single parent plant (monoclonal origin) or several genetically similar parents Chasselas (polyclonal origin or polyclonal synthesis). Arvine Cornalin/Rouge du Pays GRAPE VARIETY – A clone, or series of related clones, propagated vegetatively from a single parent plant developed from a single seed 6
24.04.19 Pinot Pinot 21 21 natural natural crossings crossings Pinot Pinot × Gouais Gouais Blanc Blanc Historical origin First mention in CH NE France 1754 (Servagnin, Técou) in Vaud & Neuchâtel DEUTSCHSCHWEIZ 1848 in Valais Aubin vert Melon Knipperlé Auxerrois Romorantin Gamay Blanc Gloriod THREE LAKES REGION Gros Bec Bachet Noir, Beaunoir Franc Noir de la Haute-Saône François Noir femelle VAUD Mezi, Romaine, Rubi, Sacy Dameron Aligoté Peurion TICINO Chardonnay GENEVA VALAIS Gamay Roublot Etymology Surface today in CH Pine cone 4’300 ha Pignols (Auvergne) Robinson, Harding, Vouillamoz 2012. Wine Grapes. Allen Lane. 1280 pp. Dôle AOC Dôle AOC Valais alais Four important grape varieties in Switzerland min. 85% max. 15% > Pinot Pinot Noir Gamay Chasselas + + Arvine AOC Cornalin/Rouge du Pays grapes 7
24.04.19 Chasselas Chasselas Earliest mentions Historical origin First mention in CH Leman Lake 1716 in Vaud DEUTSCHSCHWEIZ Gutedel 1612 Fendans THREE LAKES REGION Fendant Lausannois VAUD 1716 Fendant 1654 Chasselas Fendant 1848 TICINO Chasselas GENEVA Fendant VALAIS Etymology Surface today in CH Village near Mâcon (F) 3734 ha Hypotheses on the origin of Chasselas Hypotheses on the origin of Chasselas DNA profiling and parentage analysis ≠ Fayoumi Chasselas Switzerland France 1. Arc lémanique ? ? 4. 2. 3. Cahors Chasselas Constantinople ? Chasselas ? ? Béclan Dongine Mornen Noir Vouillamoz 2017. Cépages Suisses – Histoires et Origines. Ed. Favre, Lausanne. 160 pp 8
24.04.19 Cradle of Chasselas Four important grape varieties in Switzerland 511 varieties, 18 countires, 11 DNA regions Genetics Pinot History Chasselas Arvine Cornalin/Rouge du Pays Lausannois +morphological diversity Vouillamoz & Arnold 2009. Etude historico-génétique de l’origine du ‘Chasselas’. Revue suisse Vitic. Arboric. Hortic. 41(5):299-307 Arvine Ar vine Arvine Ar vine – DNA parentage – DNA parentage analysis analysis Lost parents – orphan variety Historical origin First mention in CH Valais 1602 in Valais Valais DEUTSCHSCHWEIZ ? ? … THREE LAKES REGION Arvine VAUD TICINO … … GENEVA VALAIS Etymology Surface today in CH arvena 166 ha ‘advenir’= just arrived Vouillamoz & Moriondo 2011. Origine des cépages valaisans et valdôtains. Ed. Belvédère, Fleurier. 240 pp. 9
24.04.19 Four important grape varieties in Switzerland Rouge du Pays/Cornalin Rouge du Pays/Cornalin Pinot Historical origin First mention in CH Aosta Valley 1878 in Valais syn. Rouge Chasselas DEUTSCHSCHWEIZ Arvine THREE LAKES REGION Cornalin/Rouge du Pays VAUD Landroter TICINO Cornalin GENEVA VALAIS Etymology Surface today in CH Cornelian cherry ( Cornus mas ) 128 ha, exclusively in VS & Red of the land Rouge du Pays/Cornalin Rouge du Pays or Cornalin ? 1313 14 e -19 e 1838 2011 Neyrun Rouge(s) Rouge du Pays Cornalin Cornalin 1878 1972 ≈ 1900 Rouge du Pays Humagne Rouge du Pays = Cornalin Rouge Cornalin Cornalin 10
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