Swiss grapes - Europe's hidden gems Swiss grapes - Europe's hidden - - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

24.04.19 1

Swiss grapes - Europe's hidden gems Swiss grapes - Europe's hidden gems

DNA profiling reveals their origins DNA profiling reveals their origins

Dr José Dr José Vouillamoz -

• uillamoz - Wine & Grapes Consulting - Switzerland

Wine & Grapes Consulting - Switzerland @JoseGrapes - www.josevouillamoz.com

Wine Grapes Wine Grapes

Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, José Vouillamoz

www.winegrapes.org

First ever winner of all 6 major wine book awards 2012-13 2009 2011 2017

References

2018

Viticulture in Viticulture in Switzerland Switzerland

14’748 ha (0.2% world surface area)

24.04.19 2

3000 BC? 800 BC? 100 – 300 AD 100 – 700 AD

Pre-roman and roman viticulture Pre-roman and roman viticulture

Grape pips from the archaeological site Gamsen/Waldmatte near Brig/Valais (800-500 BC)

Grapes possibly cultivated before the Roman era Grapes possibly cultivated before the Roman era

Pollen diagram in Montorge/Sion/Valais (800-600 BC)

Grapes possibly cultivated before the Roman era Grapes possibly cultivated before the Roman era

« Trottola » jars – celtic clay vessels in tombs (300-200 BC)

Grapes possibly cultivated before the Roman era Grapes possibly cultivated before the Roman era

24.04.19 3

Roman pruning knives in Valais (2nd- 8th AD)

Roman era Roman era Dramatic vineyards Dramatic vineyards

Vaud – Lavaux UNESCO heritage Valais Ticino Zurich High cost of labour 400-1500 hrs/ha [Bordeaux 300]

Importation, Importation, e exportation and consumption xportation and consumption

≈1%

• f the wines

produced 65% importation 35% domestic consumption

Viticulture in Viticulture in Switzerland Switzerland

> 252 grape varieties (18.5 % world’s grapes)

24.04.19 4 168 authorized varieties in the Swiss 168 authorized varieties in the Swiss AOC AOC

(out of 252) (out of 252)

Canton AOC Zurich 85 Vaud 66 Bâle-Campagne, Bâle-Ville, Soleure 62 Appenzell RE et RI, Glaris, Saint-Gall et Schaffhouse 60 Lac de Bienne 58 Valais 57 Argovie 56 Grisons 52 Autres cantons 52 Genève 49 Lucerne 48 Fribourg 45 Schwytz 31 Lac de Thoune 27 Tessin 24 Neuchâtel 12

Vouillamoz 2017. Cépages Suisses – Histoires et Origines. Ed. Favre, Lausanne. 160 pp

Red 58% White 42%

Wine grapes by colour


 Pinot noir 29% Chasselas 26% Gamay 9% Merlot 8% Others 27%

Predominant wine grapes

Grape Grape varieties varieties cultivated cultivated in in Switzerland Switzerland Grape names in Switzerland Grape names in Switzerland – a versatile concept a versatile concept

Official name Swiss name Region

Arvine Petite Arvine Valais Chasselas Fendant Valais Gros Bourgogne Plantscher Valais Marsanne Ermitage Valais Moscato Giallo Muscat du Pays Valais Müller-Thurgau Riesling × Sylvaner Switzerland Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains Muscat Valais Pinot Blanc Weissburgunder Eastern Switzerland Pinot Bianco Tessin Pinot Gris Malvoisie Valais Grauburgunder Eastern Switzerland Pinot Grigio Ticino Savagnin Blanc Heida, Païen Valais Sylvaner Johannisberg Valais Gamay Plant Robert Vaud Cornalin Humagne Rouge Valais Mondeuse Noire Gros Rouge Vaud Pinot Noir Blauburgunder, Clevner Eastern Switzerland Servagnin Vaud Pinot Précoce Frühburgunder Eastern Switzerland Rouge du Pays Cornalin Valais Rouge de Fully Durize Valais

Three Three categories categories of

• f wine

wine grape grape varieties varieties

Indigenous (born in Switzerland) Traditionnal (introduced <1900) Allogenous (introduced >1900) 80 23 150 Heritage Pinot Syrah 21 Gamay Viognier Crossings Sylvaner Nebbiolo 16 Muscat Dunkelfelder Hybrids Savagnin Aligoté 43 etc. etc.

Vouillamoz 2017. Cépages Suisses – Histoires et Origines. Ed. Favre, Lausanne. 160 pp

24.04.19 5 21 heritage grape varieties in Switzerland 21 heritage grape varieties in Switzerland

Räuschling Weiss Amigne, Arvine, Cornalin, Diolle, Eyholzer Roter, Goron de Bovernier, Gros Bourgogne, Grosse Arvine, Himbertscha, Humagne Blanc, Lafnetscha, Rèze, Rouge de Fully, Rouge du Pays Chasselas Bondola Bondoletta Schwarzer Erlenbacher Completer Hitzkircher

3733 ha 565.8 ha 3.8 %

Vouillamoz 2017. Cépages Suisses – Histoires et Origines. Ed. Favre, Lausanne. 160 pp

Recent crossings @ Recent crossings @ Agroscope Agroscope National Research Station National Research Station

Variety Crossing Year Ha Aim Charmont Chasselas × Chardonnay 1965 10 ì sugar in Chasselas Doral Chasselas × Chardonnay 1965 35 ì sugar in Chasselas Gamaret Reichensteiner × Gamay 1970 430 ì Anthocyans, Botrytis resistance Garanoir Reichensteiner × Gamay 1970 228 ì Anthocyans, Botrytis resistance Mara Reichensteiner × Gamay 1970 13 ì Anthocyans, Botrytis resistance Diolinoir Pinot Noir × Robin Noir 1970 125 ì Anthocyans Galotta Ancellotta × Gamay 1981 46 ì Anthocyans Carminoir Cabernet Sauvignon × Pinot Noir 1982 11 ì Ripeness, Botrytis resistance Divico Gamaret × Bronner 1996 30 ì Resistance to Botrytis, Powdery Mildew, Downey Mildew Total 928 6.3% of the surfaces Vouillamoz 2017. Cépages Suisses – Histoires et Origines. Ed. Favre, Lausanne. 160 pp

Grape seed Plant Grape cultivar How does a new grape cultivar appear?

What is a grape variety?

Mother Father × Vegetative propagation Clones

4 5 6 7 8 9 10 3 1 2 cuttings layering

What is a grape variety?

Pinot Noir Pinot Gris Pinot Blanc

Pinot

Mutation Mutation Savagnin Rose Aromatique/ Traminer Aromatico/ Gewürztraminer Savagnin Blanc/ Traminer Weiss/ Heida Savagnin Rose/ Traminer Rot

Savagnin

Mutation Mutation

24.04.19 6 What is a grape variety?

Pinot Noir mutation

(with sectorial chimeras)

Pinot Gris mutation

(with sectorial chimeras)

What is a grape variety?

Tempranillo mutation Cabernet Sauvignon mutations (‘malian’ and ‘shalistin’) at Clegett Wines (Australia)

What is a grape variety?

GRAPE VARIETY – A clone, or series of related clones, propagated vegetatively from a single parent plant (monoclonal origin) or several genetically similar parents (polyclonal origin or polyclonal synthesis). GRAPE VARIETY – A clone, or series of related clones, propagated vegetatively from a single parent plant developed from a single seed

Four important grape varieties in Switzerland

Pinot Chasselas Arvine Cornalin/Rouge du Pays

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THREE LAKES REGION VAUD VALAIS GENEVA TICINO DEUTSCHSCHWEIZ

Historical origin NE France First mention in CH 1754 (Servagnin, Técou) in Vaud & Neuchâtel 1848 in Valais Etymology Pine cone Pignols (Auvergne) Surface today in CH 4’300 ha

Pinot Pinot

Aubin vert Auxerrois Gamay Blanc Gloriod Gros Bec Melon Romorantin Bachet Noir, Beaunoir Franc Noir de la Haute-Saône François Noir femelle Mezi, Romaine, Rubi, Sacy Dameron Peurion Knipperlé

Aligoté Chardonnay Gamay

Roublot

21 21 natural natural crossings crossings Pinot Pinot × Gouais Gouais Blanc Blanc

Robinson, Harding, Vouillamoz 2012. Wine Grapes. Allen Lane. 1280 pp.

Dôle Dôle AOC AOC Valais alais

Pinot Noir Gamay

+

>

• min. 85%

+

AOC grapes

• max. 15%

Four important grape varieties in Switzerland

Pinot Chasselas Arvine Cornalin/Rouge du Pays

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THREE LAKES REGION VAUD VALAIS GENEVA TICINO DEUTSCHSCHWEIZ

Historical origin Leman Lake First mention in CH 1716 in Vaud

Chasselas Chasselas

Chasselas Gutedel Fendant

Etymology Village near Mâcon (F) Surface today in CH 3734 ha

Earliest mentions

1654 Chasselas 1612 Fendans Fendant Lausannois 1716 Fendant 1848 Fendant

Hypotheses on the origin of Chasselas Hypotheses on the origin of Chasselas

1. Arc lémanique 2. Constantinople

• 3. Cahors

4. Chasselas

DNA profiling and parentage analysis

Fayoumi Chasselas

≠

Chasselas ? ?

Switzerland

Mornen Noir ?

France

Dongine ? Béclan ?

Vouillamoz 2017. Cépages Suisses – Histoires et Origines. Ed. Favre, Lausanne. 160 pp

24.04.19 9 Cradle of Chasselas

Genetics History

Lausannois +morphological diversity

511 varieties, 18 countires, 11 DNA regions

Vouillamoz & Arnold 2009. Etude historico-génétique de l’origine du ‘Chasselas’. Revue suisse Vitic. Arboric. Hortic. 41(5):299-307

Four important grape varieties in Switzerland

Pinot Chasselas Arvine Cornalin/Rouge du Pays

THREE LAKES REGION VAUD VALAIS GENEVA TICINO DEUTSCHSCHWEIZ

Historical origin Valais First mention in CH 1602 in Valais Etymology arvena ‘advenir’= just arrived Surface today in CH 166 ha

Ar Arvine vine

… … …

Ar Arvine vine – DNA parentage – DNA parentage analysis analysis

Lost parents – orphan variety

Valais

Arvine ? ?

Vouillamoz & Moriondo 2011. Origine des cépages valaisans et valdôtains. Ed. Belvédère, Fleurier. 240 pp.

24.04.19 10 Four important grape varieties in Switzerland

Pinot Chasselas Arvine Cornalin/Rouge du Pays

THREE LAKES REGION VAUD VALAIS GENEVA TICINO DEUTSCHSCHWEIZ

Historical origin Aosta Valley First mention in CH 1878 in Valais

• syn. Rouge

Etymology Cornelian cherry (Cornus mas) & Red of the land Surface today in CH 128 ha, exclusively in VS

Rouge du Pays/Cornalin Rouge du Pays/Cornalin

Landroter Cornalin

Rouge du Pays/Cornalin

1313 14e-19e 1838

Neyrun Rouge(s) Cornalin Cornalin

≈1900

Humagne Rouge

1972

Rouge du Pays = Cornalin Cornalin

1878

Rouge du Pays

Rouge du Pays or Cornalin ?

2011

Rouge du Pays Cornalin

24.04.19 11 Rouge du Pays/Cornalin

Valais Val d’Aoste

Rouge du Pays Petit Rouge Mayolet ? Cornalin

Vouillamoz et al. 2003. Microsatellite analysis of ancient alpine grape cultivars: pedigree reconstruction

• f Vitis vinifera L. ‘Cornalin du Valais’. Theor. Appl. Genet. 107:448-454

Historical background

Hospice in Grand-Saint-Bernard 1000 y.o.

Torrette Via Francigena

THREE LAKES REGION VAUD VALAIS GENEVA TICINO DEUTSCHSCHWEIZ

Humagne Rouge/Cornalin

Origine historique Aoste Première mention 1838 Aoste 1900 Valais Surface en CH 135 ha Etymologie Hylomaneus = foisonnant Cornus mas = cornouiller

C

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