Introduction to the World of Perfume at the London College of - - PowerPoint PPT Presentation
Introduction to the World of Perfume at the London College of Fashion The aims of this session are: To inspire you to enjoy your sense of smell To give you a taste or sniff of what the students study in the perfumery unit By the end
The aims of this session are:
perfumery unit
By the end of the session you will be able to:
Introduction to the World of Perfume
at the London College of Fashion
thinking logical brain or to the emotional feeling brain?
smell?
well as sight?
Perfume in Literature
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Cosmetic Science take perfumery as part of a unit with marketing
use in their hair care project
What are these botanicals?
Citrus Medica Limonum
essential oil is mouth wateringly close to the
Cold extraction of citrus oils
Rosmarinus Officinalis
would rub rosemary on their foreheads before exams to help them remember
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Rosmarinus Officinalis
rosemary is said to help couples remember their wedding vows
bride and groom in the wedding ceremony
the brain are affected by rosemary
calm at the same time
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A study involving 40 participants looked at the EEG activity, alertness and mood after an aromatherapy session using lavender oil on one group and rosemary
frontal alpha and beta power suggesting increased alertness, they reported feeling more alert and more
the rosemary group were faster but not more accurate. (Diego et al, 1998) A study with 140 participants looked at the effects on memory of lavender oil, rosemary oil and no odour (the control group). The rosemary group showed
impairment of speed compared to the control. (Moss et al, 2003) Rosemary oil said to have a positive effect on mood, concentration and memory for 10 subjects. (Svoboda et al, 2002)
Some academic studies confirming the effects of rosemary oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis
men
4711, by Muelhens, launched in 1792 Eau Dynamisante, by Clarins, launched in 1987
Photographs by Tony Burfield taken 21st century in Zanzibar
Eugenia Caryophyllus
distillation
Photographs by Tony Burfield
Eugenia Caryophyllus
distillation
reported EU allergens
eugenol
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Distillation invented in Arabia
alembic still
around 200 – 300 CE but the alembic still with a more efficient condensing system is invented around the 11th or 12th century CE
derived from Arabic
Arabic
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Arabic manuscript held in the British Library showing an alembic still
Distillation invented in Arabia Translation of the text in the manuscript by LCF students:
To
y son son, You
shou
know
that if if you your r fl flam ame is is too too stro strong the the water ater will ill rise rise yel yellow to to where here col collect cted d an and d will ill be be ru ruin ined. d. When hen you your flam flame is is uti tilized in in the the prop proper way ay, , you you will ill obta
in wha hat t you you need need, , ha havi ving ng the the will ill an and d su suppo pport t of
God
. The he dist distil illate te sh shou
be kep kept t aw away ay from from su sunli nlight t until ntil need needed; ; then then take take the the
from the the wate ater. r.
Arabic manuscript held in the British Library showing an alembic still
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Viburnum Burkwoodii dianthus caryophyllus Sweet William dianthus barbatus Clove or buffalo currant Ribes odorata
Old Spice, Shulton, 1938 Opium, Yves St Laurent, 1977
Illicium Verum
many flavourings including liquorice
fine fragrance
Bājiǎo
Frankincense or Olibanum resin Boswellia Carterii
stems of a bush and hardens in the sun
Yemen and Southern Arabia
incense trade route
Censer 3rd century BC Shabwa, Yemen British museum collection 21
Shinus Molle
material (1990s onwards)
stainless steel
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Fragrance including Pink Pepper
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Eau des Merveilles, Hermes, 2004
The sense of smell Odour Families History of Fragrance Fragrance Creation Natural ingredients Synthetic Ingredients trend setters The Structure of the Perfume Industry
Smell signals are sent directly to the limbic brain Smell can trigger the reliving of a complete experience including emotions and feelings
MHC – major histocompatibility complex
Woody Balsamic Aldehydic Aquatic/Ozonic Mossy
Some Important Odour Families/Notes
Floral Fruity Citrus Green Spicy
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Odour Families Introduction activity
Woody Green Aquatic/ozonic Floral Fruity Citrus
Smell the 6 fragrance ingredients A-F and allocate each to one of the odour families below:
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Odour Families Introduction activity
A Citrus Bergamot oil
Made by cold expression A bridge in perfumery between the citrus and floral notes
B Green cis-3-hexenol
Occurs widely in nature including in fresh cut grass, bananas and strawberries
C Aquatic
Calone
Some people perceive as marine others water melon
D Fruity Amyl acetate
Like pear drops a type of confectionary or nail varnish remover
E Floral Rose oil
It takes 2 tonnes of rose petals to make 1 Kg of rose oil
F Woody Cedarwood
Reminiscent of sharpening pencils
Odour perception varies from individual to individual a) Watermelon; fresh, sweet; reminds me of a summer picnic with watermelon to eat b) Smells like watermelons and cucumbers; fresh, watery, aquatic feel c) Watermelon, marine d) Watery; fresh, light; reminds me of cucumber e) Fresh ozonic; reminds me of sea shore, shells, fish, marine life f) Ocean, salty, fishy; matt, wet; reminds me of a smelly beach, not pleasant
Below are some entries in the Odour Recognition Journals
Each entry describes the same ingredient Calone
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Odour perception varies from individual to individual
Watermelon Cucumber Marine Aquatic – fresh pleasant Seaweed Fishy - unpleasant
What is the odour of Calone for you? Do you perceive more than one aspect?
Calone
IUPAC name 7-Methylbenzo(1,4)dioxepin-3-one Functional group Cyclic diether and ketone Occurrence Not found in nature Odour Family Aquatic Perfumery uses Fresh ozonic, marine note and water
the fragrance profile Trend setter Calone was patented in 1966 but waited until the 1990s to create a new fashion in fragrance:
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Influence of Synthetics in 20th Century Perfumery
L’Eau d’Issey, Issey Miyake, 1992 New West for him, Aramis, 1988 Acqua di Giò Giorgio Armani 1996
Perfume Creation
Accords Top Notes Middle or Heart Notes Base Notes
Perfume Creation
A perfume is a harmonious bend of aromatic ingredients Fragrance is to smell, as music is to noise A typical fragrance contains between 20 and 100 ingredients
Perfume Creation
The creative perfumer knows the odours of each ingredient and will be able to predict what a blend might smell like A fragrance house will have between 1000 and 6000 ingredients
Ingredients are found from every part of plants and from all over the world
Fruit Seeds Leaves Rhizomes Twigs and Branches Bark Heart wood Grasses Roots Flowers Resins
Vetivert oil
INCI name Vetiveria Zizanoides Geographic Origins Indonesia, Haiti, Bourbon, India Botanical part Root Extract Oil Odour family Woody
Vetivert Distillation
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Vetivert bundles Vetivert root
Vetivert oil
INCI name Vetiveria Zizanoides Geographic Origins Indonesia, Haiti, Bourbon, India Botanical part Root Extract Oil Odour family Woody
Vetivert being planted for terracing
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Vetivert is used here to help protect the more delicate crop basil Vetivert is a grass above ground with a deep odorous root system
Ever since the dawn of the human race we have been blending smells to create harmonious odorous mixtures or perfumes
Why the word “Perfume”? From Latin “per fumen”, meaning “through smoke” From the ancient practice of burning precious incense in religious ceremonies to cleanse and to act as a direct link with the gods
Perfume factory discovered in Pygros, Cyprus dated around 2000BC
and labdanum
ancient Cyprus?
Chypre Coty 1917
Coty launched the first modern Chypre with: Chypre, Coty, 1917 “Give a woman a fine fragrance at a price she can afford, and an industry will grow up such as the world has never seen.” Francois Coty 1905 Coty was the first to use the new powerful absolutes in: La Rose Jaqueminot, Coty, 1904
The sense of smell Odour Families History of Fragrance Fragrance Creation Natural ingredients Synthetic Ingredients trend setters The Structure of the Perfume Industry
Commonly Reported Allergens INCI Names
Nature Identical: Examples of Natural occurrence: Anisyl Alcohol Benzyl Benzoate Benzyl Cinnamate Benzyl Alcohol Benzyl Salicylate Cinnamic Alcohol Cinnamal Citral Citronellol Coumarin Eugenol Farnesol Geraniol Isoeugenol Limonene Linalool Aniseed oil Benzoin resinoid Benzoin resinoid Ylang ylang oil Ylang ylang oil Cinnamon oils Cinnamon oils Lemon oil Rose oil, geranium oil Tonka bean absolute Clove oil Ylang Ylang oil Rose oil, geranium oil Clove oil Citrus oils Lavender oil
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Commonly Reported Allergens INCI Names
Not found in Nature: Trade name Amyl Cinnamal Amyl Cinnamic Alcohol Hexyl Cinnamal Butyl Phenol Methyl Propional Hydroxyisohexyl-3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde Methyl-2-octynoate Alpha iso Methyl Ionone Lilial Lyral Natural: Evernia Prunastri Evernia Fururacea
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Fragrance creation - The Jean Carles method
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Jean Carles (1892-1966)
THE ORIENTAL ACCORD
Balsams Vanilla
Base notes
Spices Woods
Middle notes
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THE ORIENTAL FAMILY
Shalimar Guerlain 1925 1952 Youth Dew Estée Lauder Opium YSL 1977 1985 Obsession Calvin Klein Samsara Guerlain 1989 2002 Dior Addict Dior Prada Prada 2004
Feminine fragrances
2012 Coco Noir Chanel 1898 Jicky Guerlain
2012 Tom Ford Noir Tom Ford Obsession for men Calvin Klein 1986
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THE ORIENTAL ACCORD MASCULINE
Old Spice Shulton 1931 1965 Habit Rouge Guerlain Spice Bomb Victor & Rolf 2012 Armani Code for men Giorgio Armani 2004 1998 Allure pour homme Chanel
CREATING YOUR OWN FRAGRANCE Blend 1 Rosey floral Blend 2 Jasmin floral Blend 3 Oriental Blend 4 Fruity floral fresh Blend 5 Fruity floral gourmand Blend 6 Fougère Blend 7 Cologne
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CREATING YOUR OWN FRAGRANCE Patchouli oil 10% Adding patchouli will create a chypre effect Veltol plus 1% Adding veltol plus will bring a caramel gourmand note found in Angel and Prada Candy Jasmin absolute 1% Try one drop and see how it adds complexity Bergamot oil (bergaptene free) 10% You can add bergamot oil to lift your top note Mandarin oil 10% You can add mandarin oil to modify your top note Vetiver oil 10%
Vetiver oil is often used in masculine fragrances Blends well with patchouli
Cassis Base by Firmenich 10%
A blackcurrant base used widely in fine fragrance
Calone 1%
A drop of calone will bring aquatic freshness
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Jasmin absolute Rustic, the smell in a village Unpleasant, strong, sharp ‘Reminds me of houses for animals’ Jasmine flower Bright ‘Reminds me of the jasmine in the garden at my home in Malaysia’ Jasmine, indolic, very floral Sweet (floral), powdery ‘Reminds me of the jasmine growing outside my apartment in Spain’
DIFFERENT RESPONSES TO JASMINE ABSOLUTE FROM STUDENTS AT LCF:
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Quiz
1. Which of the following islands has an ancient history of fragrance manufacture and is recognised in a fragrance family name today: A – Cypress B – Fiji C – Malta 2. What is the name of the fragrance family? 3. What is the etymology of the word perfume? 4. Which of the following cultures invented the process of essential oil distillation: A – Indian B – Chinese C – Arabic D – French 5. Which of the following is a top note fragrance ingredient? A coumarin B vanillin C amyl acetate 6. What of the following is specific anosmia mean? A Being able to smell a particular odour at a high concentration B Not being able to smell one type of odour because a particular odour receptor gene is no longer functioning C Not being able to sleep on a particular type of fabric 7. Which of the following is a reputed benefit of rosemary oil? A Helps memory B Helps sleep C Is anti-inflammatory
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Quiz
1. Which of the following islands has an ancient history of fragrance manufacture and is recognised in a fragrance family name today: A – Cypress B – Fiji C – Malta 2. What is the name of the fragrance family? Chypre 3. What is the etymology of the word perfume? Through smoke 4. Which of the following cultures invented the process of essential oil distillation: A – Indian B – Chinese C – Arabic D – French 5. Which of the following is a top note fragrance ingredient? A coumarin B vanillin C amyl acetate 6. What of the following is specific anosmia mean? A Being able to smell a particular odour at a high concentration B Not being able to smell one type of odour because a particular odour receptor gene is no longer functioning C Not being able to sleep on a particular type of fabric 7. Which of the following is a reputed benefit of rosemary oil? A Helps memory B Helps sleep C Is anti-inflammatory
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Sweet Smell of Success London College of Fashion
with Marianne Martin
The average person takes around 3 million breaths a year Enjoy your sense of smell Thank you