Fibre to fabric Gary Robinson Wool industry consultant The - - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

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Fibre to fabric Gary Robinson Wool industry consultant The - - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

Jan 13, 2023 257 likes •993 views

Fibre to fabric Gary Robinson Wool industry consultant The transformation of raw wool to fabric Zegna Photograph courtesy of AWI. Some issues for wool processing The random limit to fibre control Controlling fibres in drafting Fibre

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Fibre to fabric

Gary Robinson Wool industry consultant

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The transformation of raw wool to fabric

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Zegna

Photograph courtesy of AWI.

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Some issues for wool processing

  • The random limit to fibre control
  • Controlling fibres in drafting
  • Fibre entanglement
  • Fibre damage
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P IE C E / G AR M E NT D Y E I N G F I N IS H I N G K N I T T I N G W E A V I N G T W I S T I N G S P IN N I N G D RA W I N G S H RI N K P R O O F IN G TO P D Y E I N G CO M B I N G G I L L I N G C A R D IN G

WORSTED SYSTEM WOOLLEN SYSTEM

F IN IS H IN G P IE C E /G A R M E N T D Y E IN G K N IT T IN G W E A V IN G S P IN N IN G C A R D IN G LO O S E W O O L D Y E IN G C A R B O N IS IN G S C O U R IN G YA R N D Y E I N G YA R N D Y E I N G S C O U R I N G

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The woollen system

If it’s got two ends you can make a yarn from it. Inputs to the woollen system can include lambs wool, combed wool, dyed wool, carbonised wool, locks, crutchings, pulled rags, other animal fibres, vegetable fibres and feathers … anything with two ends.

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Principle of blending

  • Horizontal layers
  • Vertical cuts
  • Horizontal deposition
  • Mixing of wool
  • Greater uniformity of

blend

  • Ideal: all wool together
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Woollen carding

Source: Octir

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Woollen spinning scribbler section

Source: William Tatham Ltd

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Fibre flows in carding Swift

A/S Doffer Worker Stripper

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Woollen spinning Scotch feed web rotation

From scribbler To carder

Source: William Tatham Ltd.

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Woollen spinning Carder section with condenser

From scribbler section Delivery end Tape condenser

Source: William Tatham Ltd.

Cylinders Doffers

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Woollen card Delivery and condenser section

Source: William Tatham Ltd.

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Woollen spinning Condenser section

Source: William Tatham Ltd.

Tapes Rubbing mechanism

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Woollen spinning Draft against twist

Source: Murata Machines Ltd.

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Ring spinning

Front drafting roller Yarn guide Balloon control ring Ring/traveller Spindle Bobbin

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The worsted system

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The TEAM 3 equation

H = 0.43L + 0.35 S + 1.38D – 0.15M – 0.45V – 0.59CVD – 0.32CVL + 21.8 H = Hauteur or mean fibre length in the top L = Staple Length D = Fibre Diameter M = %Midbreaks V = Vegetable Matter Content CVD = CV Diameter CV = CVLength

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Blending procedure for greasy wool

Selection across sale lots

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Bale breaker

Bales

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Opening of Australian wool

Brattice feed hopper Brattice feed hopper Double drum

  • pener

Weigh belt

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Scour

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Contaminants in raw wool

  • Wool wax

10%

  • Dirt

10%

  • Suint

5% Burr Seed and shive Hardheads

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Typical wool scour

  • 1. Spray box
  • 2. Dunkers
  • 3. Rakes
  • 4. Bowl level
  • 5. Wool transfer
  • 6. Squeeze
  • 7. Conveyor

False bottom

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scour rinse scour suint scour/ rinse scour scour rinse scour suint scour rinse Conventional desuint Siroscour alkali detergent

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Sirolan - SWIMS

Rinsing rinse water

wool wax

CF CF-B membrane Evaporation suint flowdown sludges strong flow Potassium fertiliser Recyclable sludge Clean wastewater

Recovery Loops Recovery Loop

Desuint Scouring

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Drum dryer

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Topmaking

Know specifications

  • f wool before

scouring Measure scoured wool moisture and residuals Apply lubricant and moisture Blending Transferred (on conveyer belt/ pneumatic system) to card hopper Feed from hopper to card Wool is carded (loose stock to sliver) Wool web condensed and coiled into cans Check sliver weight and moisture content Transport cans to gills

7b 9 8 6 7a 5 4 3 2 1

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Carding

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Worsted carding - the Thibeau CA7 card

8250 mm 2449 mm

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Worsted carding

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Gilling

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Gilling

Slivers in Sliver

  • ut
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Blending in gilling and combing

Gilling: 6 cans x 70 kg = 420 kg  4% lot Combing: 20 bobbins x 50 kg = 1000 kg  10% lot

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Combing

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The combing cycle

Top comb Feed gill Circular comb Withdrawal rollers Shovel plate Nipper jaws Apron

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Nep generation during topmaking

2000 4000 6000 8000 Card 1st Prep 2nd Prep 3rd Prep Comb 1st Draw Top

Topmaking Stage Neps (per 100g) 17.6 micron 22.7 micron

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The role of combing

Combed yarn Uncombed yarn

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Combing

  • The final filter can be set to selectively remove short fibre.
  • Removes majority of neps.
  • Removes majority of remaining VM.
  • Straightens/aligns fibres.
  • Adjustments critical to suit wool (diameter and length).
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Top making

  • Typically two post-comb gilling passages.
  • Improve sliver cohesion.
  • Improve sliver evenness (weight per unit length).
  • Randomise fibre ends.
  • Adjust moisture content.
  • Produce top – raw material for spinner.
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Topmaking as a blending process

Stage Doublings per stage Total doublings

Preparer gilling 6 6 Second gilling 6 36 Third gilling 6 216 Combing 20 4320 Finisher 1 6 25920 Finisher 2 (top) 6 155520

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Worsted spinning

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Worsted spinning

Tops arrive at spinner Test tops:

  • length
  • diameter
  • VM/nep

Decision made - blend with other tops, blend with

  • ther fibres, dye

tops Undyed tops, 1 or 2 gillings, 1 recombing plus 2 gillings Top dyeing - 1 or 2 gillings, 1 recombing plus 2 gillings Blended with synthetics gill plus recombing plus 2 gillings Drawing x 3 or 4 times Roving Spinning Steaming yarn 1 2 3 4.1 4.2 4.3 5 6 7 8

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Winding and clearing Twisting for warp Singles yarns for weft Steaming Yarn dyeing (optional) Package yarn 9 10.1 10.2 11 12 13

Worsted spinning

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Worsted spinning

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Worsted spinning Steaming and winding

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Yarn twisting

Assembly winding Two-for-one twisting

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Sirospun

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Solospun

Solospun rollers Weavable singles yarn

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Solospun – comparison with two-fold

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OE spinning layout Rieter system

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OE rotor and drive Rieter system

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Open-end characteristics

  • Very high twist insertion: ~ 200,000 min-1.
  • High production speed: 500 m/min.
  • High production rate: 10 g/min/station.
  • Yarn not as good as ring spun → used for sheeting, not high

quality fabrics.

  • Problem with yarn structure is the presence of ‘fasciated

fibres’ giving the yarn a ‘harsh’ hand.

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Murata Vortex Spinning Drafting and Twist Insertion

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Spinning system comparisons

  • Ring.
  • Open-end (OE).
  • Air Vortex and Air Jet (false twist process).

Spinning System Ring Long Ring Short Rotor MJS† MVS‡ Spindles (million) 16 166 7.6 0.25 0.26 Delivery (m/min) 20 20 250 300 400 World Prod Rate (tonnes/min) 6.4 66.4 38 1.5 2.1

† Murata Jet Spun ‡ Murata Vortex Spun

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Principles of weaving

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Weft insertion

Shuttle with pirn

Pirn: Yarn supply

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Weft insertion

Projectile – Sulzer system

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Weft insertion

Projectile

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Rapier system

Yarn transfer

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Weft insertion

Air-jet

Weft yarns Primary air jet

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Weft yarn supply

Weft yarns Weft yarn accumulators (6)

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Weaving speeds

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Finishing and Dyeing

Worsted Woollen

Crabbing Scouring Stentering Decatising Dyeing Shearing Scouring and milling Raising Dyeing Carbonising Stentering Decatising Cropping and/or Singeing

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Plain weft knit fabric

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Weft knit rib knit or 1x1 rib

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Circular knitting Warp knitting

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Finishing of knitwear

Worsted Woollen Mild scour Steam press with vacuum Mill Dyeing and easy-care treatment Dyeing Scour Steam press with vacuum

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The miracle of transformation

  • Many steps, often unique to wool.
  • Batch processes are common.
  • Productivity often relatively low.
  • Specification and measurement essential.
  • R&D important for product and process.
  • Wool fabrics are unique and highly desirable.