Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract What is AvenaPLex? What is - - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract

What is AvenaPLex?

What is AvenaPLex?

Anhydrous Active

An anhydrous active suitable for a wide range of personal care formulations.

Extracted from Crude Oat Oil

AvenaPLex is a viscous liquid with a deep orange colour that is extracted from crude oat oil using ethanol.

Active Lipid Complex (Patent Pending)

A 40% polar lipid fraction rich in skin identical and skin equivalent ceramides, sphingolipids and phospholipids.

AvenaPLex Benefits

Barrier Repair Ceramide Enrichment Moisturising Reduce the Signs of Ageing Improve Skin Elasticity

Increases the level of essential ceramides in the skin. Replenishes skin lipids lost through ageing. Up-regulation of Hyaluronan Synthase 3 (hyalyronic acid), a key part of the skin’s natural moisturising factor. Rapidly repairs the skin lipid barrier to reduce TEWL. Provides long-lasting hydration and moisturisation for more youthful, radiant skin.

AvenaPLex Lipid Profile

Lipid Profile Summary

Neutral Lipids Percentage Triacylglycerols 37.0 Free Fatty Acids 11.0 Sterols 10.0 Diacylglycerol 2.0 Total Neutral Lipids 60.0 AvenaPlex is an unique complex containing fatty acids capable of repairing, renewing and protecting the skin lipid barrier. Polar Lipids Percentage

Ceramides 4 Phospholipids 15 DGDG / MGDG 10 Pigmented Material (Unidentified) 10 Total 40

AvenaPLex Polar Lipids

Polar Lipids: Ceramides

Skin Barrier

Ceramides form part of the skin’s barrier which works to prevent excessive water loss and protect the skin from external aggressors.

Why Are Ceramides Important?

Ceramide Class AvenaPLex Skin Identical (%) AvenaPLex Total incl. Isomers (%)

Non-hydroxy-sphingosine [NS] 0.07 0.52 Non-hydroxy-phytosphingosine [NP] 0.13 0.13 Omegahydroxy-6-hydroxy-sphingosine [EOH] 0.47 0.47 Alphahydroxy-sphingosine [AS] 0.05 0.19 Alphahydroxy-phytosphingosine [AP] 0.05 0.05

Total 0.78 1.36

Anti-Ageing

By replenishing ceramides lost through ageing, skin is able to fortify itself and retain optimal moisture for a firmer, smoother look. Approximate Composition of AvenaPLex AvenaPLex Total Ceramides 1.36 Hydroxyceramides Glycosyl Inositol Phosphoryl Ceramides (Proceramide) 1.32 Glucosylceramide 1.32 Total Ceramides 4.00 AvenaPLex contains a significant proportion of the ceramide classes required by the skin:

Polar Lipids: Phospholipids

Phospholipids Percentage

Phosphatidylcholine (PC) 6.0 Phosphatidylinositol (PI) 3.5 Pshosphatidylethanolamine (PE) 3.0 Phosphatidic acid/Phoshatidyglycerol/cardiolipin (PG) 1.5 Lysophosphatidycholine 1.0 Total Phospholipids 15.0%

Why Are Phospholipids Important?

Skin Protection

Phosphatidylcholine can improve and protect cells and membrane damaged by free radicals.

Transport Molecules

Phospholipids help to transport important molecules across cell membranes.

AvenaPLex Neutral Lipids

Neutral Lipids: Sterols

Sterol Content Percentage

Beta-Sitosterol 4.0 Avenasterol 3.5 Other (including cholesterol) 2.0

Total Sterols 9.5 Sun Protection

Reduce photosensitivity and provide protection from photo- ageing.

Why Are Sterols Important?

Collagen Reproduction

Promote cell regeneration and accelerate collagen reproduction, a key molecule in skin anti-ageing.

Anti-Inflammatory

Relive skin irritation and reduce redness.

Neutral Lipids: Triacylglycerols

Moisturising

Forms an oily, water-blocking layer on the surface of the skin that slows TEWL to aid moisture retention and softens rough skin.

Triacylglycerols Percentag e

Myristic 14:0 0.07 Pentadecylic 15:0 0.08 Palmitic 16:0 4.66 Stearic 18:0 0.55 Arachidic 20:0 0.04 Behenic 22:0 0.04 Total Saturated 5.45

Neutral Lipids: PUFA’s

Skin Health

Lipid barrier repair – reducing TEWL

Omega 6 Percentage

Linoleic 18:2n-6 10.85 Eicosadienoic acid 20:2n-6 0.02 Total Omega 6 10.87

Omega 3 Percentage

Alpha-Linolenic 18:3n-3 0.35 Stearidonic acid 18:4n-3 0.03 Total Omega 3 0.37

Why Are Fatty Acids Important? Anti-Inflammatory

Omega 3 soothes skin and helps minimise redness associated with dry skin conditions such as rosacea or eczema.

AvenaPLex Studies

AvenaPLex Studies

PROTEIN EXPRESSION

AvenaPLex increases the performance

• f key gene markers assays and up-

regulates hyaluronic acid

SKIN IDENTICAL LIPIDS OXIDATIVE STABILITY CERAMIDE INCREASE PROTEIN EXPRESSION CELL VIABILITY BARRIER REPAIR SKIN IDENTICAL LIPIDS SKIN HYDRATION ACNE CONTROL

AvenaPLex Studies

PROTEIN EXPRESSION

AvenaPLex increases the performance of key gene markers assays and up-regulates hyaluronic acid

PROTEIN EXPRESSION

AvenaPLex stimulates the activation of the pathway involved in the integrity of epidermal structural proteins and hyaluronic acid.

AvenaPLex Studies

AvenaPlex upregulates genes including Hyaluronan Synthase 3 (hyaluronic acid) responsible for the expression of proteins involved in barrier function.

Background

Comparing AvenaPLex with standard oat oil in a barrier function and hydration gene array model using a reconstructed human epidermis

Results

Barrier function measured using a gPCR Array AvenaPLex was applied at 0.005% and standard

• at oil was applied at 0.017%

PROTEIN EXPRESSION

PROTEIN EXPRESSION

Stimulate Proteins

178,2 167 169 271 50 100 150 200 250 300 Keratin Differentiation - trychohyalin Keratin Differentiation - repetin Adherens Junction -

• ccludin

Extracellular Matrix - hyaluronan synthase 3

% Increase in gene stimulation Gene Markers

% Increase in Gene Stimulation by AvenaPLex Compared to Oat Oil

CELL VIABILITY

AvenaPLex helps to prevent cells from damaging

AvenaPLex Studies

Background

Measuring the metabolic activity of the skin cells with application of 1% and 100% AvenaPLex

Results

PROTEIN EXPRESSION

Assessed using immunostaining and image analysis AvenaPLex improves cell viability when used at both 1% and 100%; preventing cells from damaging as fast as without treatment

Protect Cells

Study performed using skin explants from a 59 year old female

Score Key

Clearly altered 1 Fairly clearly altered 2 Moderately altered 3 Slightly altered 4 Very slightly altered 5 Fairly good 6 Good 7

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Control Day Control Day 5 100% AvenaPLex Day 5 1% AvenaPLex Day 5 Score

CELL VIABILITY

1% AvenaPLex at Day 5

AvenaPLex Studies

CELL VIABILITY

The application of AvenaPlex induces a regular Stratum Corneum structure, when compared to control, with good thick layers of lipid between the corneocytes. The application of AvenaPLex significantly reduces the number of dying basal keratinocytes and cell detachments inducing a much healthier lower epidermis comprised of healthy cells.

Control at Day 0

Epidermis Dermis Corneocytes Basal Layer Papilliary Layer

Control at Day 5

Dying cells Oedema Acantholysis (cell detachments) Basal Keratinocytes

AvenaPLex Studies

BARRIER REPAIR

AvenaPLex rapidly repairs the skin lipid barrier to reduce trans epidermal water loss.

AvenaPLex Studies

BARRIER REPAIR

84 86 88 90 92 94 96 98 1 hour 2 hours Total Transepidermal Water Loss Time

Transepidermal Water Loss (1% AvenaPLex)

Placebo

Barrier Repair on Aged Skin Background

Assessing the effect of 1% AvenaPLex in a base formulation on skin barrier function compared to a placebo Volunteers over the age of 40 were included in the study Trans epidermal water loss of the skin was measured using a Tewameter

Results

AvenaPLex rapidly repairs the skin barrier as demonstrated by the decrease in TEWL upon application. AvenaPLex

AvenaPLex Studies

BARRIER REPAIR SKIN HYDRATION

Daily application of AvenaPLex significantly increases skin hydration.

AvenaPLex Studies

Epidermal Moisture Measurements Background

To assess the cutaneous hydration of AvenaPLex, non-invasive capacitance measurements were performed at 5 test sites (forehead, temples, cheekbones, jaw lines and chin), with an average taken at Day 0 and Day 28. 22 volunteers aged 35 -68 were selected. All volunteers had oily skin as classified by a dermatologist.

Results

AvenaPLex significantly increased skin hydration by 9%, with one participant seeing an improvement of 26%.

SKIN HYDRATION

Volunteers answered question about sensory performance after the study.

56 60,9 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 Day 0 Day 28

Corneometer reading

Hydration Average

AvenaPLex Studies

Sensory and Performance Scores After 28 Days Consumer Perception

91% of participants noticed that their skin was more hydrated. 86% of participants agreed that their skin felt smoother and softer.

Results

Non-invasive measurements were performed at 5 test sites (forehead, temples, cheekbones, jaw lines and chin), with an average taken at Day 0 and Day 28.

SKIN HYDRATION

82% agreed it improved skin texture. 77% agreed that they had more radiant and supple skin. After 28 days:

32% 32% 27% 41% 41% 27% 45% 50% 59% 50% 45% 36% 55% 37% 0% 10% 20% 30% 40% 50% 60% 70% 80% 90% 100% Hydrating effect after application More hydrated skin More supple skin Smoother and softer skin More radiant skin Skin texture is improved Global performance Agree Strongly agree

82% 91% 77% 86% 77% 82% 82%

AvenaPLex Studies

IMPROVING LIPID BARRIER

AvenaPLex is a good source of lipids to supplement the skin’s natural lipid profile

AvenaPLex Studies

Background

Comparing lipid ratios in AvenaPLex with the lipid ratios found in the stratum corneum and epidermis

AvenaPLex is an excellent source of lipids to supplement the skins natural lipid profile.

Results

IMPROVING LIPID BARRIER

Lipid Replenishment

Study performed using skin explants from older women

Raman Shift (cm-1)

AvenaPLex Studies

IMPROVING LIPID BARRIER

67,5 87,4 88,2 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90

Surface % positive to neutral lipid staining in the Stratum Corneum Day 5

#

*

Neutral Lipids Polar Lipids

71,5 84,4 42,5 68 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 Control 100% AvenaPLex Control 100% AvenaPLex

Surface % positive to polar lipid staining in the Stratum Corneum Day 1 and Day 5

Day 1 Day 5

#

*

Significant: * : p<0.05 (95%), # : p<0.1 (90%)

AvenaPLex Studies

IMPROVING LIPID BARRIER

Control 1% AvenaPLex 100% AvenaPLex

Measurement of Neutral Lipid Surface at Day 5 Measurement of Polar Lipid Surface at Day 1 and Day 5

Control Day 1 Control Day 5 AvenaPLex Day 1 AvenaPLex Day 5

AvenaPLex Studies

CERAMIDE INCREASE

AvenaPLex increases the level of essential ceramides within the skin

Demonstrates ceramide enrichment and lipid replenishment

AvenaPLex Studies

Background

Analysing the increase in ceramides on the skin with a single application of 100% AvenaPLex on the skin (made on Day 0) Study performed using skin explants from older women

Results

AvenaPLex increases the level of essential ceramides within the skin by 26%

CERAMIDE INCREASE

Ceramide Enrichment

0,0 5,0 10,0 15,0 20,0 25,0 T0 Control 100% AvenaPLex

% of SC Surface Occupied by Ceramides Day 1

Demonstrates ceramide enrichment and lipid replenishment

AvenaPLex Studies

CERAMIDE INCREASE

Control at Day 0 1% AvenaPLex Day 1 100% AvenaPLex at Day 1 Control at Day 5 1% AvenaPLex Day 5 100% AvenaPLex Day 5

AvenaPLex Studies

ACNE CONTROL

AvenaPLex iS non-comodogenic and over 28 days, improves overall skin condition and lesion count.

AvenaPLex Studies

ACNE CONTROL 28-Day Comedogenicity Study (Acne Control) Objectives

• In-vivo study to assess the comedogenicity potential of AvenaPLex

Study Population

• Twenty-two healthy participants aged 35-68

Frequency and Duration

• Topical application of AvenaPLex once each night to the face
• Daily application occurred over a 4 week study period
• AvenaPLex was worn for at least 8 hours each day

AvenaPLex Studies

AvenaPlex is non-comodogenic Results

AvenaPLex was tested under the control of a dermatologist and the results show that a daily application of AvenaPlex improved

• verall skin condition over 28 days by reducing the number of each type of acne lesions.

ACNE CONTROL

82 56 40 16 31 18 15 13

20 40 60 80 100 120 140 160 180

Day 0 Day 28

Number of acne lesions

Acne count performed at day 0 and day 28

Micro cysts Blackheads Papules Pustules

AvenaPLex Studies

OXIDATIVE STABILITY

AvenaPLex is an extremely stable lipid complex and contains more molecules resistant to oxidation compared to other

• ils

AvenaPLex Studies

Demonstrates ceramide enrichment and lipid replenishment

Background

Testing the oxidative stability of AvenaPLex compared with other oils Using RapidOxy under oxygen pressure (7 bar initial pressure at elevated temperature – 140C). AvenaPLex is a stable oil and contains a number of molecules far more resistant to oxidation than those found in other oils.

Results

OXIDATIVE STABILITY

Highly Stable

AvenaPLex Summary

AvenaPLex Characteristics

Ceramides Fatty Acids Anti-Ageing Phospholipids

AvenaPLex Applications

Aged Skin Anti-Ageing

AvenaPLex contains powerful surface-active molecules that help prevent a loss of elasticity and firmness associated with skin-ageing. Rich in sterols, ceramides and free fatty acids, AvenaPLex rapidly repairs the skin barrier which is weakened with age.

AvenaPLex Sustainability

at

Shani Vermeulen Distributor for Oat Cosmetics at

Cosmetic Ingredients (Pty) Ltd +27126533376 shani@cosmetic-ingredients.co.za