DECIPHERING THE SCENT OF LAVENDER ESSENTIAL OIL MATHILDE LECOURT - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

DECIPHERING THE SCENT OF LAVENDER ESSENTIAL OIL MATHILDE LECOURT DOCTORAL CANDIDATE CHEMICAL INSTITUTE OF NICE, CNRS, UNIVERSITÉ COTE D’AZUR

PERSONAL DETAILS • Engineering degree (2018) • Agronomy • Fine chemistry, Green chemistry • Bioprocess • PhD: University Côte d’Azur (2018 -2021) • Natural extracts analysis • Enzymatic reaction on essential oils

FRENCH RIVIERA – PERFUME PLANTS Laven ender der Mimosa Iris Lemon Rose Jasmin ine Orange e blossom Clary ry sage Tubero erose Viole let

PLANTS FOR PERFUMES AND OTHER USES Laven ender der Clary ry sage ENDE DEMI MIC IMPORTED ED Mimosa Tubero erose FOOD D PERFU FUME ME COSMET METICS MEDICINE NE PRODU DUCTION

TECHNIQUES TO OBTAIN NATURAL INGREDIENTS HYDRO ESSEN ENTIAL L OIL DISTILLA LLATION ON STEAM AM ESSEN ENTIAL L OIL DISTILLA LLATION ON COLD D ESSEN ENTIAL L OIL PRESSU SSURE SOLVEN ENT ALCOHOLIC CONCRET ETE ABSO SOLU LUTE EXTRAC ACTION EXTRAC ACTION

ESSENTIAL OIL PRODUCTION LAVEN ENDE DER FLOWER ERS WATER ER ESSENTIAL OIL LAVENDER HYDROLAT

NATURAL INGREDIENTS IN PERFUMES Synth thetic etic Top compo poun unds Note te Middl ddle e Natu tural ral Diluent t Extra ract ct alcohol ohol Note te Base e Note te PERFUME

CARLE TRIANGLE: DEVELOPMENT OF A PERFUME Lemon Mand andari rin Bergam amot CITRUS TOP NOTES TES Anis s L Laven vender er Lemongra rass HERBS FLOWERS Rose e Jasmi smine ne Ylang ang Ylang ng Grass ss Leaves ves GREEN HEART T NOTES TES Raspb pberry erry P Pear ar Peac ach FRUITS Cinn nnamon n C Clove ve Nutmeg eg SPICES Cedar r Patchouli Vetiver ver WOODS BASE E NOTES TES Vanilla a Tonka a Bean BALSAM

LAVENDER ESSENTIAL OIL Bulgaria lgaria France ce China Others rs Lavender er Angustifoli tifolia Lavand ndula Latifoli olia Lavandin in Grosso so Lavandul ula x I Interm rmed edia ia Super

HOW ESSENTIAL OILS ARE CHARACTERIZED? Compound GAS CHROMATOGRAPHY Compound Compound Compound B A D C Injector Column Data Analysis Detector Chromatogram

STRUCTURE IDENTIFICATION • 1 molecule → 1 Mass spectrum = Unique fingerprint MASS SPECTROMETRY Energ rgy Molecule fragments Fragmentation Mass analysis Mass spectrum

HOW ESSENTIAL OILS ARE CHARACTERIZED? GAS CHROMATOGRAPHY Injector Column Data Analysis Detector Chromatogram

Linaly alyl l acetat etate Linalo alol Lavender ender EO GC profile 39% 40% Lavandul andulol Camphor Lavandul andulyl yl aceta etate te 1,8-Cin 1, ineo eol 16% 5% 5% https://www.laboratoire-anascan.com/analyse/huiles-essentielles/

Linaly alyl l acetat etate Linalo alol Lavandin EO GC profile 37% 42% Lavandul andulol Lavandul andulyl yl aceta etate te Camphor 1, 1,8-Cin ineo eol 8% 8% 13% https://www.laboratoire-anascan.com/analyse/huiles-essentielles/

Linaly alyl l acetat etate Linalo alol Lavandu anduly lyl acetat etate Lavandu andulo lol Camphor 1, 1,8-Cin ineo eol http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/

EACH MOLECULE HAS ITS OWN PERCEPTION THRESHOLD Limonene nene γ -Deca calacto ctone Natural, Citrus Natural, Peach Carvone Linalol 10 10 11 11 Natural, Mint Natural, Citrus 50 50 6 β -Damasce cenone ne Natural, Rose Frambi mbinone 1,5 Natural, Raspberry 100 100 Percept eption ion Thresh shold old Ambroxide Natural, Ambergris (ppb) 0,3 0,3 Ethylvanillin Synthetic, Vanilla 100 100 Para-Menthen-8-thiol Maltol Natural, Grapefruit Natural, Caramel 0,00005 0,00005 35000 http://www.leffingwell.com/odorthre.htm

OLFACTORY PERCEPTION PERCEPTIO TION N RECEPTOR TOR OLFACTIO TION Line coding Combina inato toria rial coding Pain Warm Pressure Odour Odour Odour 1 2 3 RECEPT EPTORS RECEPT EPTORS Signal al Signal al Signal al Lemon Laven ender der Rose

THANKS • Philadelphia Flower Show • Monell • Région Sud • IFF – LMR • Sylvain Antoniotti • Laure Gilles • Marissa Pierson • Claire Dikidjian

DECIPHERING THE SCENT OF LAVENDER ESSENTIAL OIL MATHILDE LECOURT DOCTORAL CANDIDATE CHEMICAL INSTITUTE OF NICE, CNRS, UNIVERSITÉ COTE D’AZUR