Natural Natural Fragrance ragrance Solubiliz Solubilizer ers Dennis Abbeduto Colonial Chemical, Inc.
Outline • Brief solubilizer overview • Naturally derived solubilizers • Performance evaluation 2
Solubilizer Overview 3
What is Fragrance Solubilization? • Emulsion or dispersion characterized by particle size • Generally less than ~600A • Surfactant alone is water soluble • Fragrance generally soluble in the surfactant • High ratio of surfactant to oil • Usually tolerate infinite dilution 4
Fragrance Characteristics Odor Class Odor Class Relativ elative e Exa Examples ples Pola olari rity ty Floral High Jasmine, rose, lilac, carnation Fruity Medium Esters, aldehydes, fruity lactones Menthe Medium Peppermint, spearmint, menthol Spice/Herbs Medium/Low Spice oils (eugenol) Citrus Low Terpenes, limonene Woody Low Cedar, sandalwood, pinene Medicinal Low Camphor, thymol Animal Low Ambergris, civet, musk 5
Solubility Parameter • Measure of cohesive forces between molecules • Higher numbers tend to be more polar • Molecules with similar numbers will be miscible • Molecules with values >9 will tend to be easier to solubilizer into water • Polar oils are easier to solubilize than nonpolar oils 6
Solubilizer Overview Usi Using ng the HL the HLB B sys system em Formulation Function Required HLB Defoaming of aqueous systems 1 – 3 W/O emulsification 4 – 6 Wetting 7 – 9 O/W emulsification 8 – 18 Solubilization 11 – 18 Detergency 13+ 7
Solubilizer Overview Sol Solubil ubilize izers wi s with a th appr pproximat ximate H e HLB LB value alue Oleth-10 12 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 15 Polysorbate 80 15 Oleth-20 15 Polysorbate 20 17 PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 17 Steareth-100 19 8
Solubilizer Overview Why are solubilizers made by ethoxylation? • Simple surfactants • Easily vary the HLB • Cost 9
Solubilizer Overview • A by-product of ethoxylation is 1,4-Dioxane: O O 2 O Ethylene Oxide 1,4-Dioxane 10
Naturally Derived Solubilizers 11
What is “Naturally Derived”? 12 Principles of Green Chemistry: • Major raws from renewable sources • No waste or toxic by-products • Safe process methods • Readily biodegradable • Non-toxic solvents Must produce products with comparable performance 12
Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer (SODC) • HLB Value: 13 • 65% solids in water • Moderate foamer • Straw color • “Co”polymer of Decyl Glucoside and Sorbitan Monoleate, using biobased linker • Patented • Ecocert/COSMOS, NPA, NSF, 100% Biobased (USDA) 13
Heptyl Glucoside • 70% active in water • Non-foaming • Low color • Glucoside from castor oil-derived heptyl alcohol • Patented • Ecocert/COSMOS, Ecolabel, 100% Biobased (ACDV) 14
Sulfoacetate Blend • Aqua (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (and) Sodium Oleoyl Sarcosinate (and) Sodium Chloride (and) Disodium Sulfoacetate (and) Sodium Oleate (and) Sodium Sulfate • 55% solids in water • Low foaming • Low color • Patent pending • Primarily PEG-free, no NGO approvals 15
Natural Glucosides Blend • Caprylyl/Capryl Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides (and) Aqua (and) Fusel Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides (and) Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate (and) Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (and) Glyceryl Caprylate • 70% active in water • Moderate foam • Amber color • Suggested formulation pH 4.5 – 7.5 • Ecocert/COSMOS 16
Polyglycerol Ester Blend • Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate (and) Decyl Glucoside (and) Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate (and) Diglycerin (and) Water • X% active in water • Moderate foam • Low color • Suggested formulation pH > 7 • Ecocert/COSMOS 17
Polyglyceryl Esters • Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate (and) Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate (and) Polyglyceryl-4 Cocoate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate • 100% active in water • Low color • Low foam 18
Performance Evaluation 19
Performance Evaluation Premixes with Synthetic Solubilizers 12 >10 >10 >10 10 10 10 Amount to solubilize 1% Essential Oil (%) 10 8 8 8 8 8 7 7 7 7 6 6 Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 80 4 PEG-40 HCO 2 0 Clary Sage Oil Lavendar 40/42 Lemongrass Oil Lemon Oil Italian Peppermint Oil Orchidia Orchidia Orchidia Phoenix Orchidia Essential Oil Premixes of oil and solubilizer were added to DI water and mixed at 40°C for 5-10 minutes until a clear mixture was obtained. In all tests, there was 1% fragrance in the system. 20
Performance Evaluation Premixes with Natural Solubilizers 12 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 Amount to solubilize 1% Essential Oil (%) 10 9 8 7 Crosspolymer 6 Heptyl Glucoside 4.5 Sulfoacetate Blend 3.5 4 3 PGE Blend 2.5 2 0 Clary Sage Oil Lavendar 40/42 Lemongrass Oil Lemon Oil Italian Peppermint Oil Orchidia Orchidia Orchidia Phoenix Orchidia Essential Oil Premixes of oil and solubilizer were added to DI water and mixed at 40°C for 5-10 minutes until a clear mixture was obtained. In all tests, there was 1% fragrance in the system. 21
Performance Evaluation Post-Adds with Synthetic Solubilizers 12 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 10 10 10 Amount to solubilize 1% Essential Oil (%) 8 7.5 7.5 6 Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 80 PEG-40 HCO 4 2 0 Clary Sage Oil Lavendar 40/42 Lemongrass Oil Lemon Oil Italian Peppermint Oil Orchidia Orchidia Orchidia Phoenix Orchidia Essential Oil 1 gram oil in 99 grams water, heated to 40°C. Solubilizer titrated in 0.5% increments with 5 minute mix time between increments until clear mixture obtained. 22
Performance Evaluation Post-Adds with Natural Solubilizers 12 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 10.5 Amount to solubilize 1% Essential Oil (%) 10 9 9 8 8 Crosspolymer 6 5.5 5.5 Heptyl Glucoside 4.5 Sulfoacetate Blend 4 3.5 PGE Blend 2 0 Clary Sage Oil Lavendar 40/42 Lemongrass Oil Lemon Oil Italian Peppermint Oil Orchidia Orchidia Orchidia Phoenix Orchidia Essential Oil 1 gram oil in 99 grams water, heated to 40°C. Solubilizer titrated in 0.5% increments with 5 minute mix time between increments until clear mixture obtained. 23
Conclusions • Naturally derived fragrance solubilizers with broad regulatory, NGO approvals increasing • Non-ethoxylated options offer similar, if not better performance than traditional offerings • Formulators must be mindful of advantages and drawbacks for each technology 24
Questions? Thank Thank you! you! 25
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