Natural Natural Fragrance ragrance Solubiliz Solubilizer ers - - PowerPoint PPT Presentation

Natural Natural Fragrance ragrance Solubiliz Solubilizer ers

Dennis Abbeduto Colonial Chemical, Inc.

Outline

• Brief solubilizer overview
• Naturally derived solubilizers
• Performance evaluation

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Solubilizer Overview

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What is Fragrance Solubilization?

• Emulsion or dispersion characterized by particle

size

• Generally less than ~600A
• Surfactant alone is water soluble
• Fragrance generally soluble in the surfactant
• High ratio of surfactant to oil
• Usually tolerate infinite dilution

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Fragrance Characteristics

Odor Class Odor Class Relativ elative e Pola

• lari

rity ty Exa Examples ples Floral High Jasmine, rose, lilac, carnation Fruity Medium Esters, aldehydes, fruity lactones Menthe Medium Peppermint, spearmint, menthol Spice/Herbs Medium/Low Spice oils (eugenol) Citrus Low Terpenes, limonene Woody Low Cedar, sandalwood, pinene Medicinal Low Camphor, thymol Animal Low Ambergris, civet, musk

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Solubility Parameter

• Measure of cohesive forces between molecules
• Higher numbers tend to be more polar
• Molecules with similar numbers will be miscible
• Molecules with values >9 will tend to be easier

to solubilizer into water

• Polar oils are easier to solubilize than nonpolar
• ils

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Solubilizer Overview

Usi Using ng the HL the HLB B sys system em

Formulation Function Required HLB Defoaming of aqueous systems 1 – 3 W/O emulsification 4 – 6 Wetting 7 – 9 O/W emulsification 8 – 18 Solubilization 11 – 18 Detergency 13+

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Solubilizer Overview

Sol Solubil ubilize izers wi s with a th appr pproximat ximate H e HLB LB value alue

Oleth-10 12 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 15 Polysorbate 80 15 Oleth-20 15 Polysorbate 20 17 PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 17 Steareth-100 19

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Solubilizer Overview

• Simple surfactants
• Easily vary the HLB
• Cost

Why are solubilizers made by ethoxylation?

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Solubilizer Overview

• A by-product of ethoxylation is 1,4-Dioxane:

O O O

2 Ethylene Oxide

1,4-Dioxane

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Naturally Derived Solubilizers

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What is “Naturally Derived”?

• Major raws from renewable sources
• No waste or toxic by-products
• Safe process methods
• Readily biodegradable
• Non-toxic solvents

12 Principles of Green Chemistry:

Must produce products with comparable performance

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Sorbitan Oleate Decylglucoside Crosspolymer (SODC)

• HLB Value: 13
• 65% solids in water
• Moderate foamer
• Straw color
• “Co”polymer of Decyl Glucoside and Sorbitan

Monoleate, using biobased linker

• Patented
• Ecocert/COSMOS, NPA, NSF, 100% Biobased

(USDA)

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Heptyl Glucoside

• 70% active in water
• Non-foaming
• Low color
• Glucoside from castor oil-derived heptyl alcohol
• Patented
• Ecocert/COSMOS, Ecolabel, 100% Biobased

(ACDV)

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Sulfoacetate Blend

• Aqua (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Sodium

Lauryl Sulfoacetate (and) Sodium Oleoyl Sarcosinate (and) Sodium Chloride (and) Disodium Sulfoacetate (and) Sodium Oleate (and) Sodium Sulfate

• 55% solids in water
• Low foaming
• Low color
• Patent pending
• Primarily PEG-free, no NGO approvals

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Natural Glucosides Blend

• Caprylyl/Capryl Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides

(and) Aqua (and) Fusel Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides (and) Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate (and) Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (and) Glyceryl Caprylate

• 70% active in water
• Moderate foam
• Amber color
• Suggested formulation pH 4.5 – 7.5
• Ecocert/COSMOS

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Polyglycerol Ester Blend

• Polyglyceryl-4 Caprylate (and) Decyl Glucoside

(and) Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate (and) Diglycerin (and) Water

• X% active in water
• Moderate foam
• Low color
• Suggested formulation pH > 7
• Ecocert/COSMOS

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Polyglyceryl Esters

• Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate (and) Polyglyceryl-4

Caprylate (and) Polyglyceryl-4 Cocoate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate

• 100% active in water
• Low color
• Low foam

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Performance Evaluation

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Performance Evaluation

20 8 8 7 8 6 >10 10 >10 >10 10 8 7 7 7 10 2 4 6 8 10 12 Clary Sage Oil Orchidia Lavendar 40/42 Orchidia Lemongrass Oil Orchidia Lemon Oil Italian Phoenix Peppermint Oil Orchidia Amount to solubilize 1% Essential Oil (%) Essential Oil

Premixes with Synthetic Solubilizers

Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 80 PEG-40 HCO

Premixes of oil and solubilizer were added to DI water and mixed at 40°C for 5-10 minutes until a clear mixture was

• btained. In all tests, there was 1% fragrance in the system.

Performance Evaluation

21 3.5 3 4.5 7 2.5 >10 >10 >10 >10 9 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 2 4 6 8 10 12 Clary Sage Oil Orchidia Lavendar 40/42 Orchidia Lemongrass Oil Orchidia Lemon Oil Italian Phoenix Peppermint Oil Orchidia

Amount to solubilize 1% Essential Oil (%) Essential Oil

Premixes with Natural Solubilizers

Crosspolymer Heptyl Glucoside Sulfoacetate Blend PGE Blend

Premixes of oil and solubilizer were added to DI water and mixed at 40°C for 5-10 minutes until a clear mixture was

• btained. In all tests, there was 1% fragrance in the system.

Performance Evaluation

22 >10 7.5 >10 >10 7.5 >10 10 >10 >10 10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 2 4 6 8 10 12 Clary Sage Oil Orchidia Lavendar 40/42 Orchidia Lemongrass Oil Orchidia Lemon Oil Italian Phoenix Peppermint Oil Orchidia Amount to solubilize 1% Essential Oil (%) Essential Oil

Post-Adds with Synthetic Solubilizers

Polysorbate 20 Polysorbate 80 PEG-40 HCO

1 gram oil in 99 grams water, heated to 40°C. Solubilizer titrated in 0.5% increments with 5 minute mix time between increments until clear mixture obtained.

Performance Evaluation

23 5.5 4.5 5.5 9 3.5 >10 10.5 >10 8 9 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 >10 2 4 6 8 10 12 Clary Sage Oil Orchidia Lavendar 40/42 Orchidia Lemongrass Oil Orchidia Lemon Oil Italian Phoenix Peppermint Oil Orchidia Amount to solubilize 1% Essential Oil (%) Essential Oil

Post-Adds with Natural Solubilizers

Crosspolymer Heptyl Glucoside Sulfoacetate Blend PGE Blend

1 gram oil in 99 grams water, heated to 40°C. Solubilizer titrated in 0.5% increments with 5 minute mix time between increments until clear mixture obtained.

Conclusions

• Naturally derived fragrance solubilizers with

broad regulatory, NGO approvals increasing

• Non-ethoxylated options offer similar, if not

better performance than traditional offerings

• Formulators must be mindful of advantages and

drawbacks for each technology

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Questions?

Thank Thank you! you!

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